How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang. These bolts don't seem to budge. I am trying to change the back brake pads and rotors. I have done the front brakes before and had no problems. Is there a trick I do not know about for the back brakes. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. The car is 2002 ford mustang V6 automatic coupeHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?
the caliper bolts might have seized... should be some 10 or 13 mm head bolts... but try some penetrent like PB MAX to try and loosen it up first
Also you will need a tool to retract the caliper as the parking brake is part of the caliperHow do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?
Righty tighty, lefty loosey.How do you unscrew the back caliper bolts for a 2002 mustang?
pushing the piston back in, takes a special tool, then you need to turn the piston clockwise and push at the same time,and as you turn they slowly go in
Thursday, June 2, 2011
95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
I recently changed out my front brake pads and rotors. Now I need to bleed the brakes, do I blled all four, and the master? Someone told me just the front two!? Doesn't sound right to me, And how do u bleed the master, On my 95 Dodge Ram.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
The easiest way is to buy some speedy bleed bleeder screws and install in your calipers. this will allow you to do it with one person. Then you would want to remove fluid from master cyl until about 1/4 full, fill with new fluid and bleed wheel farthest from MC first working your way to the closest. usually RR, LR, RF, LF. It's a little more technical with two people, if you don't want to use speedy bleeders. Timing and finesse are usually required, and usually goes like this: Pump pedal to build pressure, hold medium pressure, open bleeder screw, as the person depressing the pedal gets close to the floor they shout and you close the bleeder screw. It's best not to depress the pedal all the way. 3/4 travel is best. keep doing it till you see clean new fluid or if the fluid already looks clean pump a pint through for each rear and a half pint for each front. be sure to keep the reservoir full or you can pump air in. then it turns into a headache. this will bleed the master cyl, lines and calipers, but not the abs system if equipped. The master cylinder only needs to be bench bleed when it has been removed from the vehicle or it is new. And as dodge man said the gravity bleed is good too, almost fool proof, but takes along time. You just open the bleeder screw and let it slowly drip, then close the bleeder. with gravity feed i have done two wheels at once. rears at the same time, and fronts at the same time. be sure to keep an eye on that fluid level. No matter what any one says, you should replace your fluid every time you do your brakes. If you do that, pads and fluid are the only things you will have to replace.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
when i do these i gravity bleed them,its slower but better method of doing this,i just open a bleeder up and start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder,it is best to bleed all 4 wheels on them,this will also bleed out the master cylinder also on it,or you can have some one help you and pump bleed them,either way works on them,good luck with it.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
if ya did not open the system ya shouldn't have to,,but if yer going to do it start at the rear right bleeder,next the left rear,then the right front ,then the left front95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
As long as you didn't touch the rears, they should be fine. I have gotten away with only bleeding one axle. However, it doesn't hurt to bleed all four to make sure there is no air in the line. Whenever I bleed brakes, I do a gravity bleed first, then manually bleed them. To do this: take the cover off your master cylinder, and open all your bleeder screws. Fluid will travel down the lines and force all the air out at the bleeders. Do not let the master cylinder go empty during this process. When no more ait comes out, close the bleeders. Have someone get in the driver's seat and push on the pedal while you open the bleeder screw at one wheel. Have them push the pedal, you open the bleeder, let fluid/air come out, close the bleeder, and have the assistant let off the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out of the bleeder. Repeat this process for each wheel, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder:Right Rear, Left Rear, RIght Front, Left Front. If you do it right, you'll get all the air out of the system and you brakes will work fine. Hope this helps.
The easiest way is to buy some speedy bleed bleeder screws and install in your calipers. this will allow you to do it with one person. Then you would want to remove fluid from master cyl until about 1/4 full, fill with new fluid and bleed wheel farthest from MC first working your way to the closest. usually RR, LR, RF, LF. It's a little more technical with two people, if you don't want to use speedy bleeders. Timing and finesse are usually required, and usually goes like this: Pump pedal to build pressure, hold medium pressure, open bleeder screw, as the person depressing the pedal gets close to the floor they shout and you close the bleeder screw. It's best not to depress the pedal all the way. 3/4 travel is best. keep doing it till you see clean new fluid or if the fluid already looks clean pump a pint through for each rear and a half pint for each front. be sure to keep the reservoir full or you can pump air in. then it turns into a headache. this will bleed the master cyl, lines and calipers, but not the abs system if equipped. The master cylinder only needs to be bench bleed when it has been removed from the vehicle or it is new. And as dodge man said the gravity bleed is good too, almost fool proof, but takes along time. You just open the bleeder screw and let it slowly drip, then close the bleeder. with gravity feed i have done two wheels at once. rears at the same time, and fronts at the same time. be sure to keep an eye on that fluid level. No matter what any one says, you should replace your fluid every time you do your brakes. If you do that, pads and fluid are the only things you will have to replace.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
when i do these i gravity bleed them,its slower but better method of doing this,i just open a bleeder up and start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder,it is best to bleed all 4 wheels on them,this will also bleed out the master cylinder also on it,or you can have some one help you and pump bleed them,either way works on them,good luck with it.95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
if ya did not open the system ya shouldn't have to,,but if yer going to do it start at the rear right bleeder,next the left rear,then the right front ,then the left front95 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 Can I hav ur take on bleeding the brake system? And do u blead all or two?
As long as you didn't touch the rears, they should be fine. I have gotten away with only bleeding one axle. However, it doesn't hurt to bleed all four to make sure there is no air in the line. Whenever I bleed brakes, I do a gravity bleed first, then manually bleed them. To do this: take the cover off your master cylinder, and open all your bleeder screws. Fluid will travel down the lines and force all the air out at the bleeders. Do not let the master cylinder go empty during this process. When no more ait comes out, close the bleeders. Have someone get in the driver's seat and push on the pedal while you open the bleeder screw at one wheel. Have them push the pedal, you open the bleeder, let fluid/air come out, close the bleeder, and have the assistant let off the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out of the bleeder. Repeat this process for each wheel, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder:Right Rear, Left Rear, RIght Front, Left Front. If you do it right, you'll get all the air out of the system and you brakes will work fine. Hope this helps.
My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
When I檓 driving about 50 mph and I step on the brakes my steering wheel shakes.
I檓 not sure which of the 2 rotors are warped. They檙e still factory rotors. Is it a good idea to resurface these? About how much would it costs 2 resurface them or 2 replace them? Is getting them from a salvage yard a good idea? I know when I fix them I should change my brakes as well! Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
You can get new rotors from Auto Zone for about $20 each, and a new set of pads for another $15-$30 depending on which grade you get, so why not just replace them. If you have the rotors resurfaced this will run about half the cost of new ones, and if your rotors are worn down beyond the safe thickness they can't be turned anyway. Don't get rotors from a junkyard, because you would have to have them resurfaced before you could use them, and you might get one that was in a wreck and cracked. Not knowing this you could get killed from wrecking you car. It is just not a good idea. I would get new pads, and new rotors, and have some piece of mind knowing you have dependable brakes.
Glad I could help, Good Luck!!!My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
If they are warped then you have to replace them. New rotors are not very expensive so there no reason to take the risk of buying any from a junk yard.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
If the rotors were NOT cut yet, then they can be resurfaced, if they were cut already there may not be enough metal there to shave off from the previous cut, then you will need new rotors, I would'nt get any from a %26quot;BONE YARD%26quot;, brakes, tires, and wheels should NOT be gotten from a junk yard, too risky, always buy those parts new.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
99% sure it's the fronts.
I agree with music, buy new rotors. Call around to the different places in your area. Autozone online showed one for $25.99. If you use new ones, buy a can of brake cleaner, since you must clean the coating off of them before installation.
Yours could be turned for at least 10 bucks a piece.
Junk yard rotors could be warped too, you can't tell by looking at them. Might be a waste of money.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
where I live it costs $8 to turn rotors. But if they are warped then I would recommend getting new ones. For the impala they are about $28 a piece at Napa. Do not get salvage yard rotors. Spend the little extra and get new ones. I just did a 2003 monte carlo pretty much the same car as far as the brakes are concerned it cost me $18 for the set of pads and $28per rotor. I just did the front. Total bill was $80. That is just parts if you are taking them somewhere to have done add about $100 to that price.what does btw satnd for fish
I檓 not sure which of the 2 rotors are warped. They檙e still factory rotors. Is it a good idea to resurface these? About how much would it costs 2 resurface them or 2 replace them? Is getting them from a salvage yard a good idea? I know when I fix them I should change my brakes as well! Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
You can get new rotors from Auto Zone for about $20 each, and a new set of pads for another $15-$30 depending on which grade you get, so why not just replace them. If you have the rotors resurfaced this will run about half the cost of new ones, and if your rotors are worn down beyond the safe thickness they can't be turned anyway. Don't get rotors from a junkyard, because you would have to have them resurfaced before you could use them, and you might get one that was in a wreck and cracked. Not knowing this you could get killed from wrecking you car. It is just not a good idea. I would get new pads, and new rotors, and have some piece of mind knowing you have dependable brakes.
Glad I could help, Good Luck!!!My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
If they are warped then you have to replace them. New rotors are not very expensive so there no reason to take the risk of buying any from a junk yard.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
If the rotors were NOT cut yet, then they can be resurfaced, if they were cut already there may not be enough metal there to shave off from the previous cut, then you will need new rotors, I would'nt get any from a %26quot;BONE YARD%26quot;, brakes, tires, and wheels should NOT be gotten from a junk yard, too risky, always buy those parts new.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
99% sure it's the fronts.
I agree with music, buy new rotors. Call around to the different places in your area. Autozone online showed one for $25.99. If you use new ones, buy a can of brake cleaner, since you must clean the coating off of them before installation.
Yours could be turned for at least 10 bucks a piece.
Junk yard rotors could be warped too, you can't tell by looking at them. Might be a waste of money.My 2002 Impala LS (sport package) has warped rotors. How bad is this problem?
where I live it costs $8 to turn rotors. But if they are warped then I would recommend getting new ones. For the impala they are about $28 a piece at Napa. Do not get salvage yard rotors. Spend the little extra and get new ones. I just did a 2003 monte carlo pretty much the same car as far as the brakes are concerned it cost me $18 for the set of pads and $28per rotor. I just did the front. Total bill was $80. That is just parts if you are taking them somewhere to have done add about $100 to that price.
Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
I have a 2000 firebird (v6) warped rear disc brakes. Also, how important is it to bleed the brakes. On my 90's camaro I never bled them and never had a problem. Please help me out.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
no the rotors should come right off. if you don't open up the hydraulic part of the brake system you shouldn't have to bleed them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
Damn!! I should know this answer, I learned it in class today. My guess is since your replacing the pads and rotors you might as well replace the bearings, I think you have to replace the bearings every 30,000 miles.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
normally, I clean them and inspect them .any, I say any ,mark I replace them ,otherwise they are good. re grease them(repack) and install them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
no, no bearing removal is required, but check for lateral movement, and as far a brakes go no bleeding is not required unless you breach the system,Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
once you get the brake calipers off the rotors will come right off, you won't have to remove any bearings. The brake fluid should by all rights be flushed out every couple of years as moisture gets into the brake system and can cause havock with the ABS system.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
basically speaking.. u should not have to replace the bearing on a rear disc brake assembly, it depends on if u have a top hat design or integral design.. if u have top hat then u just pull off the rotor and replace the rotor and put on the caliper and wheel and such.. also.. bleeding your brakes is very important because your brakes absorb water because they are hygroscopic.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
no...you will not need to change wheel bearings....although if you are going to have the rotors off anyway, you may want to. your brakes should not have to be bled after replacing rotors and pads.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
You will have to remove the bearing to get the rotor off.Pack the bearing with grease before you put them back.You shouldnt have to bleed the brakes.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
on gm the bearing is seperate from the disc.just change the pads and rotors,like you would do on the front.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
No. you don't need to replace them. The bearing almost never goes bad and usually last the lifetime of your car. Replace it if you hear noise from it, like it is not lubricated. Bled the brake only if you remove the tube that goes to the wheel and you lost some oil (on the floor). Usually, to replace a brake, do not unscrew the oil pipe. Before you remove the rotor, insert a crew driver between the pads and push the piston inside the caliper. The pads came loose and with enough space to insert a new ones.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
A fire bird is rear wheel drive, so you would have to take apart the rearend and remove the axels to replace the bearings. So, you just need to leave that alone. The brakes are pretty straight forward. Pull off the rotors and slide new ones on. rear calipers usually need to be turned in, not pushed in like front calipers. look at your piston face ( the part that pushes on the pad) You should see 2 to 4 indents on the outer edge. these are engaged by a special tool used to turn them in. I've used channel locks as a last resort. Be careful not to rip the boots. You can probably rent a rear piston pusher at autozone. If you dont open the brake line you will not need to bleed them, but it is a good idea to bleed out the old fluid once in awhile to keep it fresh because it does absorb moisture from the air.
no the rotors should come right off. if you don't open up the hydraulic part of the brake system you shouldn't have to bleed them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
Damn!! I should know this answer, I learned it in class today. My guess is since your replacing the pads and rotors you might as well replace the bearings, I think you have to replace the bearings every 30,000 miles.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
normally, I clean them and inspect them .any, I say any ,mark I replace them ,otherwise they are good. re grease them(repack) and install them.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
no, no bearing removal is required, but check for lateral movement, and as far a brakes go no bleeding is not required unless you breach the system,Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
once you get the brake calipers off the rotors will come right off, you won't have to remove any bearings. The brake fluid should by all rights be flushed out every couple of years as moisture gets into the brake system and can cause havock with the ABS system.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
basically speaking.. u should not have to replace the bearing on a rear disc brake assembly, it depends on if u have a top hat design or integral design.. if u have top hat then u just pull off the rotor and replace the rotor and put on the caliper and wheel and such.. also.. bleeding your brakes is very important because your brakes absorb water because they are hygroscopic.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
no...you will not need to change wheel bearings....although if you are going to have the rotors off anyway, you may want to. your brakes should not have to be bled after replacing rotors and pads.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
You will have to remove the bearing to get the rotor off.Pack the bearing with grease before you put them back.You shouldnt have to bleed the brakes.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
on gm the bearing is seperate from the disc.just change the pads and rotors,like you would do on the front.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
No. you don't need to replace them. The bearing almost never goes bad and usually last the lifetime of your car. Replace it if you hear noise from it, like it is not lubricated. Bled the brake only if you remove the tube that goes to the wheel and you lost some oil (on the floor). Usually, to replace a brake, do not unscrew the oil pipe. Before you remove the rotor, insert a crew driver between the pads and push the piston inside the caliper. The pads came loose and with enough space to insert a new ones.Changing rear Rotors and pads. Will I have to change/remove bearings???
A fire bird is rear wheel drive, so you would have to take apart the rearend and remove the axels to replace the bearings. So, you just need to leave that alone. The brakes are pretty straight forward. Pull off the rotors and slide new ones on. rear calipers usually need to be turned in, not pushed in like front calipers. look at your piston face ( the part that pushes on the pad) You should see 2 to 4 indents on the outer edge. these are engaged by a special tool used to turn them in. I've used channel locks as a last resort. Be careful not to rip the boots. You can probably rent a rear piston pusher at autozone. If you dont open the brake line you will not need to bleed them, but it is a good idea to bleed out the old fluid once in awhile to keep it fresh because it does absorb moisture from the air.
New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
I have a 03 Saturn L200. After changing the front Brakes and Rotors went for a quick ride to see how they worked I immediatley was getting this rubbing sound. I am not sure if it is just that the brake pads need to wear a little with the new rotors or If we made a mistake or we were given the wrong parts but it is quite noisy and it is constant. I have driven roughly 10 miles since the new ones were put on. The Brakes work fine but its just when I am driving I am pretty sure the Brake pads ,because they are new a re rubbing against the rotors.
Anyone experience this or have any idea what the problem could be?New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
the only thing I can think of is the calipers are sticking a little and not pulling back far enough, just guessing.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
Since there new wait a week or so they will grind down sometimes the factory's make them ever so slightly big. and they will rub. but they will grind down after a while.
it takes an average of 100 miles to wear in. give or take.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
They are supposed to be in constant contact, but quiet. If it's older your caliper could be sticking and misaligning the pads. I would take it apart and check things out. Make sure there's no crud stuck on the pads. Check the condition of the caliper slides. If they're pitted or not smooth it will wreak havoc. You shouldn't hear anything. A little squeal when applying brakes is normal when new pads heat up and glaze too quickly but sounds like something different in your case. Make sure a pad isn't in backwards.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
well you need to make sure you were given the right pads. if theyre wrong and are thicker than the correct pads, theyll rub. it could be that your caliper is sticking. could be that the pads were not put on straight (level) so one corner of them is rubbing the rotor. there are so many possibilities, its tough to tell exactly. brake pads should NEVER need to %26quot;wear a little%26quot;. start by making sure you were given the right pads and rotors once you confirm that...mechanic? sorry.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
I would jack up the car and re-check your work.Make sure the brake calipers are not sticking,and ALL the caliper and rotor hardware is properly installed (slider pins or wedges,anti rattle clips,caliper bolts,etc).Make sure the rotors are properly seated on the hubs also.
Anyone experience this or have any idea what the problem could be?New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
the only thing I can think of is the calipers are sticking a little and not pulling back far enough, just guessing.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
Since there new wait a week or so they will grind down sometimes the factory's make them ever so slightly big. and they will rub. but they will grind down after a while.
it takes an average of 100 miles to wear in. give or take.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
They are supposed to be in constant contact, but quiet. If it's older your caliper could be sticking and misaligning the pads. I would take it apart and check things out. Make sure there's no crud stuck on the pads. Check the condition of the caliper slides. If they're pitted or not smooth it will wreak havoc. You shouldn't hear anything. A little squeal when applying brakes is normal when new pads heat up and glaze too quickly but sounds like something different in your case. Make sure a pad isn't in backwards.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
well you need to make sure you were given the right pads. if theyre wrong and are thicker than the correct pads, theyll rub. it could be that your caliper is sticking. could be that the pads were not put on straight (level) so one corner of them is rubbing the rotor. there are so many possibilities, its tough to tell exactly. brake pads should NEVER need to %26quot;wear a little%26quot;. start by making sure you were given the right pads and rotors once you confirm that...mechanic? sorry.New front Brakes and Rotors, Why are they rubbing together constantly?
I would jack up the car and re-check your work.Make sure the brake calipers are not sticking,and ALL the caliper and rotor hardware is properly installed (slider pins or wedges,anti rattle clips,caliper bolts,etc).Make sure the rotors are properly seated on the hubs also.
How to change front and rear brakes on '07 Yukon Denali?
How bad is a brake job (pads and rotors) on a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali... I got a quote for $1100 but I can buy the pads and rotors for $288 and do them myself, its been a few years since ive done brakes on my own and ive never done a dual piston setup, anything special? anyone memorize enough to give me a step by step? thanks!How to change front and rear brakes on %26039;07 Yukon Denali?
Nah nothing special, take the wheel off, take the caliper off, remove the old brake pads, remove the caliper braket.. now the hard part is to take the rotor off cuz it might be rusty and wont come off that easy... if there 2 screws then use an impact screw driver to get them off, if there are 2 holes, then you just need 2 get 2 bolts and screw them in to push the rotor out... then use a C-Clamp to push the pistons back in so that you can put it over the new pads, have funHow to change front and rear brakes on %26039;07 Yukon Denali?
way to high
type into search box
steps
how to check brake pads
how to check brake pads video
how to remove brake pads
how to remove brake pads video
how to replace brake pads
how to replace brake pads Yukon
how to bleed brakes
how to bleed brakes video
how to remove brake rotors
how to remove brake rotor video
how to remove brake rotor Yukon Denali
really not real hard to learn brakes
my wife does her own brake jobs
my 7 yrs old boy helps me do mine
most cars brake systems are about same in doing the job once you know basic steps
just nuts and bolts really
some brake caliber pistons are screw in type
many are not
and a tip once job is dont dont forget to pump brake peddle a few times to check
you can find most repairs online even video of repairs
how to name of what your looking for
how to check
how to remove\replace
how to install
how to repair
name of what your wanting
add video
works with everything not just cars
dual no differents if you have done any brake jobs at all you got the stepsHow to change front and rear brakes on %26039;07 Yukon Denali?
Buy a Haynes manual
But there is nothing different other than the double piston
Nah nothing special, take the wheel off, take the caliper off, remove the old brake pads, remove the caliper braket.. now the hard part is to take the rotor off cuz it might be rusty and wont come off that easy... if there 2 screws then use an impact screw driver to get them off, if there are 2 holes, then you just need 2 get 2 bolts and screw them in to push the rotor out... then use a C-Clamp to push the pistons back in so that you can put it over the new pads, have funHow to change front and rear brakes on %26039;07 Yukon Denali?
way to high
type into search box
steps
how to check brake pads
how to check brake pads video
how to remove brake pads
how to remove brake pads video
how to replace brake pads
how to replace brake pads Yukon
how to bleed brakes
how to bleed brakes video
how to remove brake rotors
how to remove brake rotor video
how to remove brake rotor Yukon Denali
really not real hard to learn brakes
my wife does her own brake jobs
my 7 yrs old boy helps me do mine
most cars brake systems are about same in doing the job once you know basic steps
just nuts and bolts really
some brake caliber pistons are screw in type
many are not
and a tip once job is dont dont forget to pump brake peddle a few times to check
you can find most repairs online even video of repairs
how to name of what your looking for
how to check
how to remove\replace
how to install
how to repair
name of what your wanting
add video
works with everything not just cars
dual no differents if you have done any brake jobs at all you got the stepsHow to change front and rear brakes on %26039;07 Yukon Denali?
Buy a Haynes manual
But there is nothing different other than the double piston
Question about changing brakes?
I was following directions from an Edmunds website, and one paragraph said this...
The rotor is that shiny metal disc staring you in the face right now. You can almost see your reflection, right? Get your eyes level with it. If you can't see your face, or at least its general outline, it may mean that the disc needs servicing or replacement. Below, we'll show you how to check this disc for scoring or marring, and what to do about that.
If my rotor is covered in brake dust, will I still be able to see my reflection?
Does a LOT of brake dust mean its time to change my breaks?Question about changing brakes?
A rotor that has been used on a vehicle will be very shiny. There should not be enough brake dust on the rotor to hide your reflection.
If the brake pad lining appears to be the thickness of a 3.5 disc or less, you should replace them.
I would also recommend taking your rotors in and having them checked for thickness and to see if they can be turned, if they are thick enough I would suggest having them machined.
A new rotor or a resurfaced rotor will have a dull silver color associated with them, you will not be able to see a reflection of anything in them.Question about changing brakes?
how thick are the break pads if there are thin then replace themQuestion about changing brakes?
When servicing the breaks, the rotors should always be machined or replaced. Most shops charge (IF you bring the rotor TO THEM) 4$ per rotor to machine them back to flat.
Brake dust is irrelivant if the rotors and pads are in good condition and you don't hear any squeaks or grinding.
If you have no idea what you're doing, please have your brakes done by a professional, I'd prefer to NOT be rear-ended by a do-it-yourselfer.Question about changing brakes?
No, a lot of brake dust doesn't have to mean it's new brake time. Buy some brake cleaner to remove the dust and look at the pads... if the liner is worn to the metal %26quot;screech tab%26quot; then it is time to replace, otherwise, just spray them clean and re-assemble.Question about changing brakes?
You can wipe off the brake dust. Just don't breathe it in. As for if you need to change your brakes, if the rotors feel perfectly smooth to the touch then they're likely okay, providing they're not worn down below the minimum thickness. Brake service centers and most garages have the specifications on minimum thickness for various types of rotors -- and the tools and know-how to measure them. If they're too thin the rotors are not strong enough and they can overheat, warp, crack or even snap off under heavy braking. (Which means you then have NO brakes on that wheel and the car can spin -- especialy on a slippery road surface.)
If the rotors are grooved on the surface they need to be either machined smooth again or replaced with new ones. Again, sometimes they can't be machined because they will have to be shaved down too thin and then they're not safe anyway.
Brake pads. If they're getting down anywhere near eighth of an inch or so they are dangerously low and should be replaced pronto. One sudden stop can strip off the last of the pad material and then it's metal on metal and that's bad news indeed. They won't work right, they'll screech like all get-out, and they'll get so hot you can actually weld a brake pad backing plate to a rotor. Not kidding, okay? Big bucks to repair if you don't crash beforehand.
If you have any doubts at all about whether your brakes are up to scratch or not, take your car to experts and let them have the responsibility of putting things right if needs be. Remember it's not just if they look okay, those rotors must be within the safety tolerance or they can fail very suddenly.
The rotor is that shiny metal disc staring you in the face right now. You can almost see your reflection, right? Get your eyes level with it. If you can't see your face, or at least its general outline, it may mean that the disc needs servicing or replacement. Below, we'll show you how to check this disc for scoring or marring, and what to do about that.
If my rotor is covered in brake dust, will I still be able to see my reflection?
Does a LOT of brake dust mean its time to change my breaks?Question about changing brakes?
A rotor that has been used on a vehicle will be very shiny. There should not be enough brake dust on the rotor to hide your reflection.
If the brake pad lining appears to be the thickness of a 3.5 disc or less, you should replace them.
I would also recommend taking your rotors in and having them checked for thickness and to see if they can be turned, if they are thick enough I would suggest having them machined.
A new rotor or a resurfaced rotor will have a dull silver color associated with them, you will not be able to see a reflection of anything in them.Question about changing brakes?
how thick are the break pads if there are thin then replace themQuestion about changing brakes?
When servicing the breaks, the rotors should always be machined or replaced. Most shops charge (IF you bring the rotor TO THEM) 4$ per rotor to machine them back to flat.
Brake dust is irrelivant if the rotors and pads are in good condition and you don't hear any squeaks or grinding.
If you have no idea what you're doing, please have your brakes done by a professional, I'd prefer to NOT be rear-ended by a do-it-yourselfer.Question about changing brakes?
No, a lot of brake dust doesn't have to mean it's new brake time. Buy some brake cleaner to remove the dust and look at the pads... if the liner is worn to the metal %26quot;screech tab%26quot; then it is time to replace, otherwise, just spray them clean and re-assemble.Question about changing brakes?
You can wipe off the brake dust. Just don't breathe it in. As for if you need to change your brakes, if the rotors feel perfectly smooth to the touch then they're likely okay, providing they're not worn down below the minimum thickness. Brake service centers and most garages have the specifications on minimum thickness for various types of rotors -- and the tools and know-how to measure them. If they're too thin the rotors are not strong enough and they can overheat, warp, crack or even snap off under heavy braking. (Which means you then have NO brakes on that wheel and the car can spin -- especialy on a slippery road surface.)
If the rotors are grooved on the surface they need to be either machined smooth again or replaced with new ones. Again, sometimes they can't be machined because they will have to be shaved down too thin and then they're not safe anyway.
Brake pads. If they're getting down anywhere near eighth of an inch or so they are dangerously low and should be replaced pronto. One sudden stop can strip off the last of the pad material and then it's metal on metal and that's bad news indeed. They won't work right, they'll screech like all get-out, and they'll get so hot you can actually weld a brake pad backing plate to a rotor. Not kidding, okay? Big bucks to repair if you don't crash beforehand.
If you have any doubts at all about whether your brakes are up to scratch or not, take your car to experts and let them have the responsibility of putting things right if needs be. Remember it's not just if they look okay, those rotors must be within the safety tolerance or they can fail very suddenly.
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