Recnetly ive noticed that my car needs new brakes. When I brake going over 50mph my car starts to shake. Is that my rotors? If so how much would new brakes rotars, oil change, tire rotation and alighnment cost me ballpark??How much will this cost ballpark?
What you are describing is called variations from parallel or in simple terms a warped rotor. If the rotor has sufficient material left, it can be resurfaced and reused. This is part of a normal brake service. Typical charge for this service is around $125.00 for both fronts or both rear brakes. If they require replacing, typical cost is about $70.00 per rotor. Oil change $30.00, Tire rotation is usually complimentary with getting the brakes done. Most shops charge about $69.00 for a alignment. The shaking of the steering wheel will stop after the brakes are serviced. Good LuckHow much will this cost ballpark?
You need to tell people what kind of car your drive, silly.How much will this cost ballpark?
could also be a ball joint. Is the shake in the seat, or the steering wheel?
Sounds likea ball joint or something in the suspension. you will also get a shake at low speeds if it was a warped rotor. I would take it to get aligned first your breaks may be fine, sears won't charge you for the alignment if it can't be done which means you can get the inspection of the steering for free, then decide what to do from there.
Best of luck.How much will this cost ballpark?
could be bad calipers and bad rotors/gets a little pricey if its complete rebuild/why alignment are tires wearing funny??do all the brakes/rotate should be included(wheels are off) and the oil service/dont know where you live but i figure whole thing 800How much will this cost ballpark?
it will be better to take it to a mechanic..... they will take a look at your car then tell you how much it will be. im pretty sure it wont be that expensive.How much will this cost ballpark?
You should be able to get all four breaks fixed for $500 to $800 depending on what you need...oil change and alighnment $75 more. I would also recommend that you get ceramic breaks they are just better breaks, will last longer stop better, and won't leave as much dust on your rims and should only cost about $20 more than standard breaks.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
What's wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
I just bought a used 1999 Nissan maxima. It squeals every time I apply the brakes or reverse. It's really loud and annoying. The guy assured me he had just changed the brake pads before he stopped driving it 6 months ago and it was just the %26quot;rotors%26quot; that were a little rusty. He said after driving a while it would be fine. However just earlier I noticed it was making that sound when I drive too, just a little less louder than when I reverse or brake.
Anyone had this before? Is it just the break fluid or those rotors? I'm trying to go service it but the car is vital 2 me. How long will it take to get fixed?What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
brakes, rotors or axlesWhat%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Theres dust in the brakes, there's probably no grease on the back pf tje brake pads, or the brakes need bleeding. Rotors might need turned also.What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Make sure that the brakes were just changed for yourself. Thats a very important part of a car. Check the rotors to see if they are scored. Also make sure the pads still have life left on them. There is a wear indicator that make a squealing noise from the brakes saying that the pads are low and need changed. It works by a little piece of metal rubbing across the rotor (causing no damage) when brake are applied. If you're not comfortable with checking the brakes yourself, take it to a local brake shop, most of them will check for free. if everything turns out ok, then you can pick up some lube from any auto parts store that will keep your brakes from squealing. What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Which is vital 2 you - your car or your life? No brakes could mean your life as you wrap the car around a pole or into another car. Any shop will do that does brakes. Brakes systems are the same in all cars.
A little rusty does not squeal, it just stops faster. No pads(totally worn out metal to metal squeal). it will damage the rotors too. But you have no braking at all.
Brakes are something you do not have intimate sexual relations with. No guesswork. Do it now or lose the car completely because it is a hazard on the road..What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
There are a lot of things it could be. Brake dust, Metallic brake pads, or pads worn out and the indicator doing its job. Take it to a place that specializes in brakes, diagnosis is usually free.What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
A couple of things here. the guy that changed the brake pads may or may not have known what the heck he was doing. anyone can change the pads, but did he check the rotors for thickness, scoring, radial run out etc? Did he make sure the calipers were not sticking?
A squealing sound is a high pitched vibration that can be a pain to fix. It could be as simple as he says and be nothing more than rusty rotors that need 100 miles or so to clean them selves. It could also be sloppy repair work. As to how long it will take to fix, I'd drive a while longer and see if it gets any better. One way to see if something is really binding is to drive the car a few miles and then carefully put your hand near the front wheels and see if one wheel feels hotter than the other. The front brakes do like 80% of the stopping, so I'm guessing that's where the squeal is.
Good luck
DM%26amp;FS
What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Lets not get to crazy here yet. It could be the cover on the back side of the spindle, so that a good look at the back of your wheel and make sure that the cover isn't bent and causing it to rubbing the inside of the rim. Iv'e seen this happen to many times .
Anyone had this before? Is it just the break fluid or those rotors? I'm trying to go service it but the car is vital 2 me. How long will it take to get fixed?What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
brakes, rotors or axlesWhat%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Theres dust in the brakes, there's probably no grease on the back pf tje brake pads, or the brakes need bleeding. Rotors might need turned also.What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Make sure that the brakes were just changed for yourself. Thats a very important part of a car. Check the rotors to see if they are scored. Also make sure the pads still have life left on them. There is a wear indicator that make a squealing noise from the brakes saying that the pads are low and need changed. It works by a little piece of metal rubbing across the rotor (causing no damage) when brake are applied. If you're not comfortable with checking the brakes yourself, take it to a local brake shop, most of them will check for free. if everything turns out ok, then you can pick up some lube from any auto parts store that will keep your brakes from squealing. What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Which is vital 2 you - your car or your life? No brakes could mean your life as you wrap the car around a pole or into another car. Any shop will do that does brakes. Brakes systems are the same in all cars.
A little rusty does not squeal, it just stops faster. No pads(totally worn out metal to metal squeal). it will damage the rotors too. But you have no braking at all.
Brakes are something you do not have intimate sexual relations with. No guesswork. Do it now or lose the car completely because it is a hazard on the road..What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
There are a lot of things it could be. Brake dust, Metallic brake pads, or pads worn out and the indicator doing its job. Take it to a place that specializes in brakes, diagnosis is usually free.What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
A couple of things here. the guy that changed the brake pads may or may not have known what the heck he was doing. anyone can change the pads, but did he check the rotors for thickness, scoring, radial run out etc? Did he make sure the calipers were not sticking?
A squealing sound is a high pitched vibration that can be a pain to fix. It could be as simple as he says and be nothing more than rusty rotors that need 100 miles or so to clean them selves. It could also be sloppy repair work. As to how long it will take to fix, I'd drive a while longer and see if it gets any better. One way to see if something is really binding is to drive the car a few miles and then carefully put your hand near the front wheels and see if one wheel feels hotter than the other. The front brakes do like 80% of the stopping, so I'm guessing that's where the squeal is.
Good luck
DM%26amp;FS
What%26039;s wrong with my Car? Anyone ever had this problem?
Lets not get to crazy here yet. It could be the cover on the back side of the spindle, so that a good look at the back of your wheel and make sure that the cover isn't bent and causing it to rubbing the inside of the rim. Iv'e seen this happen to many times .
Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
Ok, so for starters this is NOT your typical %26quot;Oh, its a brake problem%26quot; or %26quot;Oh, you need a wheel balance%26quot; vibration - kinda tired of seeing those posts with only those solutions.
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called %26quot;chassis ears%26quot; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called %26quot;lower....something%26quot;
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the %26quot;harmonic stabilizer%26quot; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealershipWhere is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called %26quot;chassis ears%26quot; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called %26quot;lower....something%26quot;
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the %26quot;harmonic stabilizer%26quot; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealershipWhere is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
I want to upgrade my hidraulic brakes from 6" to 8"?
What do I need to modify? I just want to change the rotors, do I need to change the calipers also? how can I do this?
thanksI want to upgrade my hidraulic brakes from 6%26quot; to 8%26quot;?
If its the front check your fork to see if its post mount like on most new Rock Shox or IS- international standard. Once that is established, buy the Front 203 mm adaptor. Also make sure your fork can handle the larger rotor. Make sure you have the right rotor like Center Lock or standard six bolt for your hub and wheel
Its pretty much the same for the rears too. Just make sure you get the right adapter for the rear. I messed up once by not paying attention to which adaptor and wasted like $30.
One last thing. Different rotors are different thicknesses. I think Magura brakes are thinner then most- I think. I'm not sure how much of a difference it all really makes but I try to buy a rotor from that brake company.
I hope this helped a little.
thanksI want to upgrade my hidraulic brakes from 6%26quot; to 8%26quot;?
If its the front check your fork to see if its post mount like on most new Rock Shox or IS- international standard. Once that is established, buy the Front 203 mm adaptor. Also make sure your fork can handle the larger rotor. Make sure you have the right rotor like Center Lock or standard six bolt for your hub and wheel
Its pretty much the same for the rears too. Just make sure you get the right adapter for the rear. I messed up once by not paying attention to which adaptor and wasted like $30.
One last thing. Different rotors are different thicknesses. I think Magura brakes are thinner then most- I think. I'm not sure how much of a difference it all really makes but I try to buy a rotor from that brake company.
I hope this helped a little.
How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
for my 2001 ford taurus i already bought the parts i need to change the rotor(just one),the brake pads and the right caliper, parts are bought already so i was wondering how much should i pay someone for the labor for someone to do it for me ????How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
Ive been a mechanic since 2001. On the side I would do it for $40. It'll take like 30 - 45 minutes max.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
50-100$ if you already bought the parts.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
If you were my friend I would do it for a 12 pack of beer and a little conversation as it only takes about 20 minutes to an hour to do. Depending on how much conversation is going on.
About $50 is a good estimate though.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
shouldn't take too long 100-150 is about right since in order to change the caliper the brakes must be drainedHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
no no no no. you do brakes in pairs if you have the money. just like shocks or struts. however if you don't want to do that to put a caliper, rotor and pads on...it's a pack of smokes and a 6 pack. that's what they should be paid. and a shop is typically going to be around 100-150 if they're replacing a caliper.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
no more than a hundred dollars cause you have all the parts in hand and its about 2 hrs work tops and that's if your slow lolHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
takes about an hour max .How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
50-100.00 would be about right... it's about an hours worth of workHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
I can't understand why you'd buy the parts having no idea who's going to install them or what the cost. I used to hate it when people showed up at my shop with BYO parts because if the parts were wrong or defective, my work space would be tied up while I waited for them to straighten it out with the parts vendor. Even when I took the time to pre-check the part numbers myself, I considered it a risk. In most cases, these folks hadn't even bothered to ask for a professional's quote on the work: they just assumed they would be gouged. I felt that I was the one being gouged instead. I stopped taking those jobs and I feel OK about it..net get their medical advice
Ive been a mechanic since 2001. On the side I would do it for $40. It'll take like 30 - 45 minutes max.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
50-100$ if you already bought the parts.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
If you were my friend I would do it for a 12 pack of beer and a little conversation as it only takes about 20 minutes to an hour to do. Depending on how much conversation is going on.
About $50 is a good estimate though.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
shouldn't take too long 100-150 is about right since in order to change the caliper the brakes must be drainedHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
no no no no. you do brakes in pairs if you have the money. just like shocks or struts. however if you don't want to do that to put a caliper, rotor and pads on...it's a pack of smokes and a 6 pack. that's what they should be paid. and a shop is typically going to be around 100-150 if they're replacing a caliper.How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
no more than a hundred dollars cause you have all the parts in hand and its about 2 hrs work tops and that's if your slow lolHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
takes about an hour max .How much should i pay someone to fix my car?
50-100.00 would be about right... it's about an hours worth of workHow much should i pay someone to fix my car?
I can't understand why you'd buy the parts having no idea who's going to install them or what the cost. I used to hate it when people showed up at my shop with BYO parts because if the parts were wrong or defective, my work space would be tied up while I waited for them to straighten it out with the parts vendor. Even when I took the time to pre-check the part numbers myself, I considered it a risk. In most cases, these folks hadn't even bothered to ask for a professional's quote on the work: they just assumed they would be gouged. I felt that I was the one being gouged instead. I stopped taking those jobs and I feel OK about it.
How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
I have changed the bakes, caliper, rubber hoses and rotors...Bled the brakes but for some reason the front passenger side gets stuck. And there is a nasty smell too. The brake pedal also hardens...But if I step on the brake hard it releases preassure and Im able to drive again. Could it be that I need to replace the master cylinder?How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
Sounds like a problem with the caliper to me.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
The smell could be the parking brake, and the hard pedal I cannot say. I would recommend going to a reliable mechanic and getting that checked out.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
It sounds as if the brake system is not releasing hydraulic pressure when you let off of the pedal. You need to check the clearance of the master cylinder push rod. It is difficult to do without a special tool but here is the gist of it. Take off the brake master cylinder. Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole in it where the push rod goes to the surface where it mounts on the brake booster. Measure the distance from the tip of the push rod to surface to the brake booster where the master cylinder goes. These should be the same or maybe the push rod length just a touch less. If the push rod length is greater than the depth of the hole it goes into the master cylinder is not allowed to return keeping the brakes on. If this distance checks out you probably have a problem with the master cylinder. If you install a new master cylinder be sure to check the push rod depth as described above. The depth can be adjusted by holding the splines on the push rod and turning the end in or out.
Sounds like a problem with the caliper to me.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
The smell could be the parking brake, and the hard pedal I cannot say. I would recommend going to a reliable mechanic and getting that checked out.How do I fix my brakes on a 90 Toyota Celica gt-s?
It sounds as if the brake system is not releasing hydraulic pressure when you let off of the pedal. You need to check the clearance of the master cylinder push rod. It is difficult to do without a special tool but here is the gist of it. Take off the brake master cylinder. Measure the distance from the bottom of the hole in it where the push rod goes to the surface where it mounts on the brake booster. Measure the distance from the tip of the push rod to surface to the brake booster where the master cylinder goes. These should be the same or maybe the push rod length just a touch less. If the push rod length is greater than the depth of the hole it goes into the master cylinder is not allowed to return keeping the brakes on. If this distance checks out you probably have a problem with the master cylinder. If you install a new master cylinder be sure to check the push rod depth as described above. The depth can be adjusted by holding the splines on the push rod and turning the end in or out.
Brake problems on Pontiac G6?
I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6?
the pistons in the calipers are getting egg shaped as they come out of the caliper and do not retract properly.
Go to a Nappa store for a rebuild kit. They sell the best and most reliable parts for this kind of repair. I just cant remember what the outfit is but I think its Bendix,,but its a USA outfit.
Thats the simple answer. The worst case scenarion is the brake line system has been F------p from day one and the dealers were idiots.Brake problems on Pontiac G6?
talk to mech where you work. they don't have an agenda. good luck. JD
the pistons in the calipers are getting egg shaped as they come out of the caliper and do not retract properly.
Go to a Nappa store for a rebuild kit. They sell the best and most reliable parts for this kind of repair. I just cant remember what the outfit is but I think its Bendix,,but its a USA outfit.
Thats the simple answer. The worst case scenarion is the brake line system has been F------p from day one and the dealers were idiots.Brake problems on Pontiac G6?
talk to mech where you work. they don't have an agenda. good luck. JD
I need to know how to tell difference in disc brake mounts on my mountian bike. I am changing to a 8" rotor?
Unless you are downhilling 8%26quot; rotors are a waste of money. Nobody needs that type of power for XC or all-mountain.I need to know how to tell difference in disc brake mounts on my mountian bike. I am changing to a 8%26quot; rotor?
Its not always the mounts which are vital. you'll obviously need the correct mounts for the calliper.
the calliper needs to match the size of the rotor.
IS mounts are holes perpendicular to your wheels.
Post mounts are like holes drilled in you fork lowers.I need to know how to tell difference in disc brake mounts on my mountian bike. I am changing to a 8%26quot; rotor?
Well, unless you have a disc-equipped bike from the 1990's, you won't really have to do anything except buy 1 or 2 8%26quot; rotors and their accompanying calipers and hubs. It would also be wise to check and make sure your fork and seatstay will be able to handle the increased stress loads which a larger 8%26quot; rotor will produce, otherwise they can crack and fracture when riding. If you have a disc-equipped bike from the 1990's, you may need to get a more modern hub, because modern disc brakes have 6 bolts that attach the rotor to the hub. 1990's bikes can have any number of bolts, not just six. If, by chance, your 1990's bike does have 6 bolts, then all you have to do is read the above instructions. Otherwise, get a more modern hub. I hope this helps.
Its not always the mounts which are vital. you'll obviously need the correct mounts for the calliper.
the calliper needs to match the size of the rotor.
IS mounts are holes perpendicular to your wheels.
Post mounts are like holes drilled in you fork lowers.I need to know how to tell difference in disc brake mounts on my mountian bike. I am changing to a 8%26quot; rotor?
Well, unless you have a disc-equipped bike from the 1990's, you won't really have to do anything except buy 1 or 2 8%26quot; rotors and their accompanying calipers and hubs. It would also be wise to check and make sure your fork and seatstay will be able to handle the increased stress loads which a larger 8%26quot; rotor will produce, otherwise they can crack and fracture when riding. If you have a disc-equipped bike from the 1990's, you may need to get a more modern hub, because modern disc brakes have 6 bolts that attach the rotor to the hub. 1990's bikes can have any number of bolts, not just six. If, by chance, your 1990's bike does have 6 bolts, then all you have to do is read the above instructions. Otherwise, get a more modern hub. I hope this helps.
Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
I have a 05 Pontiac G6 GT. I was living in Syracuse, NY (since I bought it in 05 until last fall) and have relocated to Ga. I was wondering if anyone else has had problems with their brakes on this car? I was having my rotors turned every oil change, front one time then the rear. They had to replace my rotors before I hit 25,000 mi because they had turned them too much. I have also had my pads replaced (all under warranty). I am STILL having the same problems??? They grab, and just feel rough when I brake. I think it is a caliber problem. The last time I took it in the dealer down here said that my rotors need turned again. They are grooved, but very little, not like before. Anyone got any ideas on what could be causing this and how to fix it? I am now over my 36,000 miles but the dealer said something about a number to call and it will be fixed under warranty?? Any and all help would be appreciated! TIA!Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
You are still under warranty. Pontiac will replace the complete brake assembly if they have to. Call the number, keep pushing them.
Even tho you exceeded the number of miles under your warranty, since the problem started when it was under warranty, you are still covered.
Try a different dealer, this one seems clueless.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
If the problem is like the one on my Malibu, go aftermarket. When new, my Malibu ate the first set of pads in 18k. I changed them w/lifetime aftermarket pads. By not using a factory pad, it solved the close tolerance problem, you appear to be experiencing. I'm at 80k w/no problems worth mentioning. I replaced the rotors aftermarket also on the one pad change I did do.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
The major mistake most consumers make is buying lifetime brake pads. Then they wonder why their rotors are eat-up all the time.
Best bet.. buy Bendix aftermarket rotors.. buy low cost pads.. replace pads as needed.
Some drivers are tough on brakes.. lay off the Mario Andretti driving skills.. if that is a problem.
Does this help any?Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
It really sounds like thats too often to turn the rotors bec that's only 5,000 kms no need for turning rotors every 5,000 kms or around 3,000 miles thats in fact strange, unless there's a fault , if I'm right from what your saying the rotors keep getting grooves in them? If so the pads would need also to be replaced at the same exact time too. Yes if you feel something like your saying that means the pads aren't grabbing the rotors right or the rotors have rough or uneven surfaces. Indeed what you say about the calipers being faulty or acting up is what I'd say it is, other wise it has to be faulty new parts being installed.
Gosh if you knew how often I turn mine you'd really wonder why thier doing that. On any car I drive on avgerage I do my brakes every 3 to 5 yrs or every 50,000 to 70,000 miles or so.Although I do check them once a yr or so regularly.Keep in mind I'm very light on my brakes and most people have done thier brakes about 3 times or 5 times by the time I've do mine.
I think thier doing work just to get paid by the manufacture under warranty. or indeed theres some kind of faulty parts like the pads aren't right or theres infact dirt in the calipers causing them to grab unevenly. Although these mechanics should of caught this problem already.Keep in mind the rear braking system can cause very weird and even unthinkable problems in the front braking system if the rear brakes aren't right too.
One time I had brought my car in for a brake check to just be sure they were okay and knowing that my rear brake drums had a bit of a metal inner edge on them inside.The mechanic drove it and checked the brakes saying they were fine and asked my whyI brought my car even in to them.Then in another breathe he said in fact that my drums needed replacing bec of that edge I already knew of. He said I could just change the drums bec the brake shoes were fine. I was wondering if he was wrong bec from my knowledge once you change drums or turn them you automatically change the shoes.Plus to me the old shoes will end up screwing up the new drums but since I'm not a real mechanic and that guy has yrs of shop brake repair experience , I did as he said.
I was right never should of listened to him bec now my car's front brakes were being affected by the back brakes, thus my cars right front wheel brakes were grabbing wiredly and causing the a some kind of rubbing and now the wheel was pulling when braking. It ended up.I thought I better try sanding down the old drums with fine sandpaper and doing the same to the old shoes and simply putting the old drums back on.It ended up I was right the new drums , one of them now was damaged inside and the old drums and old shoes worked fine and the front brakes were prefect once again. So theres a perfect example how so called experts tell us things that we know ourselves does'nt make quite logical sense but bec thier supposely the experts we listen to them and end up having headaches.
That call thier mentioning is probaly some hot line customer service manufacture number . If this this something that keeps reoccurring due to the cars literally having brake system failers since new then they'd probaly agree to extend your warranty free of charge just for the brakes.
You know in your case I'd phone the head office and raise heck demanding they completely overhaul and check the front ends brakes and rears and fix the faults asap.If you get slack demand to talk to thier boss or supervisor etc.
Anyways best of luck and I highly doubt thier give you any slack bec you've the maintance records to prove it, plus the dealshership to back you up too. But I suggest you make this call asap.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
Are you one of those that let your foot rest on the brake pedal all the time you're driving? Just the weight of your foot will keep pressure on the brake pads and cause rotor overheating and excessive brake wear.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
call frog!! JD
You are still under warranty. Pontiac will replace the complete brake assembly if they have to. Call the number, keep pushing them.
Even tho you exceeded the number of miles under your warranty, since the problem started when it was under warranty, you are still covered.
Try a different dealer, this one seems clueless.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
If the problem is like the one on my Malibu, go aftermarket. When new, my Malibu ate the first set of pads in 18k. I changed them w/lifetime aftermarket pads. By not using a factory pad, it solved the close tolerance problem, you appear to be experiencing. I'm at 80k w/no problems worth mentioning. I replaced the rotors aftermarket also on the one pad change I did do.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
The major mistake most consumers make is buying lifetime brake pads. Then they wonder why their rotors are eat-up all the time.
Best bet.. buy Bendix aftermarket rotors.. buy low cost pads.. replace pads as needed.
Some drivers are tough on brakes.. lay off the Mario Andretti driving skills.. if that is a problem.
Does this help any?Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
It really sounds like thats too often to turn the rotors bec that's only 5,000 kms no need for turning rotors every 5,000 kms or around 3,000 miles thats in fact strange, unless there's a fault , if I'm right from what your saying the rotors keep getting grooves in them? If so the pads would need also to be replaced at the same exact time too. Yes if you feel something like your saying that means the pads aren't grabbing the rotors right or the rotors have rough or uneven surfaces. Indeed what you say about the calipers being faulty or acting up is what I'd say it is, other wise it has to be faulty new parts being installed.
Gosh if you knew how often I turn mine you'd really wonder why thier doing that. On any car I drive on avgerage I do my brakes every 3 to 5 yrs or every 50,000 to 70,000 miles or so.Although I do check them once a yr or so regularly.Keep in mind I'm very light on my brakes and most people have done thier brakes about 3 times or 5 times by the time I've do mine.
I think thier doing work just to get paid by the manufacture under warranty. or indeed theres some kind of faulty parts like the pads aren't right or theres infact dirt in the calipers causing them to grab unevenly. Although these mechanics should of caught this problem already.Keep in mind the rear braking system can cause very weird and even unthinkable problems in the front braking system if the rear brakes aren't right too.
One time I had brought my car in for a brake check to just be sure they were okay and knowing that my rear brake drums had a bit of a metal inner edge on them inside.The mechanic drove it and checked the brakes saying they were fine and asked my whyI brought my car even in to them.Then in another breathe he said in fact that my drums needed replacing bec of that edge I already knew of. He said I could just change the drums bec the brake shoes were fine. I was wondering if he was wrong bec from my knowledge once you change drums or turn them you automatically change the shoes.Plus to me the old shoes will end up screwing up the new drums but since I'm not a real mechanic and that guy has yrs of shop brake repair experience , I did as he said.
I was right never should of listened to him bec now my car's front brakes were being affected by the back brakes, thus my cars right front wheel brakes were grabbing wiredly and causing the a some kind of rubbing and now the wheel was pulling when braking. It ended up.I thought I better try sanding down the old drums with fine sandpaper and doing the same to the old shoes and simply putting the old drums back on.It ended up I was right the new drums , one of them now was damaged inside and the old drums and old shoes worked fine and the front brakes were prefect once again. So theres a perfect example how so called experts tell us things that we know ourselves does'nt make quite logical sense but bec thier supposely the experts we listen to them and end up having headaches.
That call thier mentioning is probaly some hot line customer service manufacture number . If this this something that keeps reoccurring due to the cars literally having brake system failers since new then they'd probaly agree to extend your warranty free of charge just for the brakes.
You know in your case I'd phone the head office and raise heck demanding they completely overhaul and check the front ends brakes and rears and fix the faults asap.If you get slack demand to talk to thier boss or supervisor etc.
Anyways best of luck and I highly doubt thier give you any slack bec you've the maintance records to prove it, plus the dealshership to back you up too. But I suggest you make this call asap.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
Are you one of those that let your foot rest on the brake pedal all the time you're driving? Just the weight of your foot will keep pressure on the brake pads and cause rotor overheating and excessive brake wear.Brake problems on Pontiac G6???
call frog!! JD
Need new brakes in my BMW 325i, should I go with the ceramic brakes?
I have read a little about these.
The main benefit I am looking for is the reduce in the brake dust on the wheels, I have found them on sites for just a little more than regular pads. Should I go with ceramic or stick with regular??
Like what is the PROs and CONs of these. will I need to change my rotors as well? how much less brake dust will there be? how good are they in stopping quality? Do they really outlast regular brakes by that much?
Or would I not even notice any difference in getting these? except for priceNeed new brakes in my BMW 325i, should I go with the ceramic brakes?
For street use I've heard good things about ceramic pads, particularly from Akebono and Hawk. There don't seem to be significant CON's, and the PRO's are lower dust, quiet and good stopping power, all with a decent life. all pretty much what you want in a street pad.
I think you'll find that OE pads will have slightly better initial bite and modulation, but they are very dusty. I would give the ceramic pads a try.potatoe salad recipe acne on back shoulders
The main benefit I am looking for is the reduce in the brake dust on the wheels, I have found them on sites for just a little more than regular pads. Should I go with ceramic or stick with regular??
Like what is the PROs and CONs of these. will I need to change my rotors as well? how much less brake dust will there be? how good are they in stopping quality? Do they really outlast regular brakes by that much?
Or would I not even notice any difference in getting these? except for priceNeed new brakes in my BMW 325i, should I go with the ceramic brakes?
For street use I've heard good things about ceramic pads, particularly from Akebono and Hawk. There don't seem to be significant CON's, and the PRO's are lower dust, quiet and good stopping power, all with a decent life. all pretty much what you want in a street pad.
I think you'll find that OE pads will have slightly better initial bite and modulation, but they are very dusty. I would give the ceramic pads a try.
When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Theres a lot of life in the brake pads and the brakes seem to work fine in doing what they do, its just that at the very end, right before the car comes to a complete halt, no matter how lightly i apply the brakes, it stops suddenly with a crunching noise. it sounds as if the brake pads squeeze the rotors too hard or something. it sounds as if it needs to be lubricated somewhere. This will also occur when I change gears and I have my foot on the brake. Thanks in advance!When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
I just had a similar situation happen two weeks ago. It could be brake pads -- which could be like $150. If it has damaged the rotors, you are looking at something more like $450 - $600. One thing you should check is if there has been a recall on the brakes. I have a Ford 500 with 65,000 miles on it -- but because of the recall, I didn't pay a penny. I am usually not that lucky -- believe me!!!
Either way, get it in and checked. The longer you wait -- the more likely the problem will be bigger -- and more costly. Plus the safety issue of just having your brakes work properly.
Good luck.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
May I suggest you buy a new car lol xxWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Sounds like you could have dirt or some sort of debris stuck in between your rotors %26amp; brake padsWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
No idea, sorry... Try going to a mechanic... High prices, thoughWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Sounds like your rotor or shoe is bad. Go to a good mechanic if you have one that gives you a free brake inspection.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
it sounds to me like the brake caliper on your car may be loose. get a prybar and try to shift it back and forth, if it moves at all then that's your problem.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Mine did something like that a while back, ended up being that the break pads or whatever they are attached to was on too tight.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Do you know for sure that all of your brakes are in good condition. It sounds like the rear which in most cases are drum with shoes are in bad shape. If you have all wheel disk brakes than ?? If you have front disk and rear drum then check above.
I just had a similar situation happen two weeks ago. It could be brake pads -- which could be like $150. If it has damaged the rotors, you are looking at something more like $450 - $600. One thing you should check is if there has been a recall on the brakes. I have a Ford 500 with 65,000 miles on it -- but because of the recall, I didn't pay a penny. I am usually not that lucky -- believe me!!!
Either way, get it in and checked. The longer you wait -- the more likely the problem will be bigger -- and more costly. Plus the safety issue of just having your brakes work properly.
Good luck.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
May I suggest you buy a new car lol xxWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Sounds like you could have dirt or some sort of debris stuck in between your rotors %26amp; brake padsWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
No idea, sorry... Try going to a mechanic... High prices, thoughWhen I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Sounds like your rotor or shoe is bad. Go to a good mechanic if you have one that gives you a free brake inspection.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
it sounds to me like the brake caliper on your car may be loose. get a prybar and try to shift it back and forth, if it moves at all then that's your problem.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Mine did something like that a while back, ended up being that the break pads or whatever they are attached to was on too tight.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
Do you know for sure that all of your brakes are in good condition. It sounds like the rear which in most cases are drum with shoes are in bad shape. If you have all wheel disk brakes than ?? If you have front disk and rear drum then check above.
2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
@ 14,000 miles my brakes were squealing.
Took it in for service and was told that my Front Brakes needed to be replaced and that the rotors were a little bit damaged but I could get away with just changing the pads.
Now at 17, 000 miles I am told that my Rear brakes need to be changed. The service manager said that the pads probably only have 2,000 miles left and that the Rotors are burnt from Canyon driving. . . (???)
Said I need to replace both for $450. and that its all normal wear and tear and not covered under warranty.
I have only had the car for a little over 1 year.
How can I be having all these brake issues already?
and with no coverage under warranty?
Am I being ripped off?
thanks2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
I happen to love the problems with VW because they keep me in business. For one thing the front rotors should have been replaced when those pads went bad, (pick em up at a parts store then bring them into the mechanic and have him put them in You'll save Mucho dollars then if the Mechanic sells them to you) Your rear brakes should not be so worn out at 17K Rear pads last the longest as they only account for approximately 25% of the braking. I would also question the driving. I dont know where you live but Canyon Driving doesn't sound so good for any VW get a jeep for that, VW's are ment for 125 miles an hour on a German Highway.
Also Brakes are almost Never covered under warranty they fall into a wear and tear category that can be blamed on the driver so Tires aren't ever covered either.
It's Bumper to Bumper and nothing below em.
And I dont think your being ripped off I think you have a typical mechanic their, charing what VW's Cost to repair.
Try to remember in the future that German Auto's alsways have expensive parts. Never cheap to maintain.
Good luck2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
this is called planned obselence - it happens a lot with german cars. there is no reason for you brakes to be wearing out at 15k miles unless they were complete crap to begin with or you have been driving really hard and riding your brakes like crazy. normal wear for brake pads is about 30 to 40k miles. and brake pads should never cost more that 50 dollars a pair and should be about an hour's worth of labor to put them on - so about 150 to 175 total. yes, it sounds like you getting screwed. take it to a local garage and get an estimate from them - better yet buy the pads from autozone and then take it to a shop and have them put on. the best advise to take as much of the repairs into your own hands and then you can keep costs way down by eliminating the middle man2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
I HAVE REPLACED A LOT OF VW REAR BRAKE PADS AT THE 20000 MILE AREA. THE EXPLANATION I HAVE BEEN GIVEN IS THE REAR PADS ARE MADE OF A SOFTER MATERIAL TO PREVENT SQUEEKING. YOU SHOULDNT HAVE TO REPLACE REAR ROTORS UNLESS THEY ARE WARPED. [BRAKE PEDAL PULSATION WHEN STOPPING]
Took it in for service and was told that my Front Brakes needed to be replaced and that the rotors were a little bit damaged but I could get away with just changing the pads.
Now at 17, 000 miles I am told that my Rear brakes need to be changed. The service manager said that the pads probably only have 2,000 miles left and that the Rotors are burnt from Canyon driving. . . (???)
Said I need to replace both for $450. and that its all normal wear and tear and not covered under warranty.
I have only had the car for a little over 1 year.
How can I be having all these brake issues already?
and with no coverage under warranty?
Am I being ripped off?
thanks2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
I happen to love the problems with VW because they keep me in business. For one thing the front rotors should have been replaced when those pads went bad, (pick em up at a parts store then bring them into the mechanic and have him put them in You'll save Mucho dollars then if the Mechanic sells them to you) Your rear brakes should not be so worn out at 17K Rear pads last the longest as they only account for approximately 25% of the braking. I would also question the driving. I dont know where you live but Canyon Driving doesn't sound so good for any VW get a jeep for that, VW's are ment for 125 miles an hour on a German Highway.
Also Brakes are almost Never covered under warranty they fall into a wear and tear category that can be blamed on the driver so Tires aren't ever covered either.
It's Bumper to Bumper and nothing below em.
And I dont think your being ripped off I think you have a typical mechanic their, charing what VW's Cost to repair.
Try to remember in the future that German Auto's alsways have expensive parts. Never cheap to maintain.
Good luck2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
this is called planned obselence - it happens a lot with german cars. there is no reason for you brakes to be wearing out at 15k miles unless they were complete crap to begin with or you have been driving really hard and riding your brakes like crazy. normal wear for brake pads is about 30 to 40k miles. and brake pads should never cost more that 50 dollars a pair and should be about an hour's worth of labor to put them on - so about 150 to 175 total. yes, it sounds like you getting screwed. take it to a local garage and get an estimate from them - better yet buy the pads from autozone and then take it to a shop and have them put on. the best advise to take as much of the repairs into your own hands and then you can keep costs way down by eliminating the middle man2005.5 Jetta Brake Problems at 14,000 miles. . .?
I HAVE REPLACED A LOT OF VW REAR BRAKE PADS AT THE 20000 MILE AREA. THE EXPLANATION I HAVE BEEN GIVEN IS THE REAR PADS ARE MADE OF A SOFTER MATERIAL TO PREVENT SQUEEKING. YOU SHOULDNT HAVE TO REPLACE REAR ROTORS UNLESS THEY ARE WARPED. [BRAKE PEDAL PULSATION WHEN STOPPING]
My car's rear right tire's brakes are grinding, and it's happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Seems like this is a once a year occurance. My rear right tire is currently grinding. I looked into it, and looks like the rotor is going to need to be replaced. If this has happened to all my other tires already, and I get my brakes changed when I am supposed to, could this be some kind of manufacturers defect? Should I tell Toyota about this? What could the problem be that I hear this grinding sound even when not applying the brake? And it's not all the time either. Sometimes I brake, and I dont even hear the grinding at all. I'm very confused. Please help! And how much would something like this cost me to fix?
Thanks,
SteveMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
have the rotors checked, i had same problem, replaced all 4 rotors have no grinding now.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
could be a number of things, also maybe the proportioning valve is bad. it is below the master cylinder where all your brake lines are hooked into. it is suppose to automatically distribute even pressure to all the lines. maybe there is some dirt in the lines. detach them at the calipers 1 at a time and completely bleed the system. i had that happen to me in the past and sounds like exact same thing. this is why it happened at differant times for differant wheelsMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Tires don't have brakes!!!My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
its probably the calipers are hanging up and wearing out the pads,and making a grinding.i never heard of a tire grinding,unless its out of line and wearing into the steel.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
As you didn't tell us the year, model, or mileage, nobody can really suggest anything that would help.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Usually when your brake pads wear completely out, where the pad is gone will chew through the rotor. It should not happen every year though. If your tires are grinding you need to take it in, or you may end up in someones back seat.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Are you in some sort of delivery job? Papers, pizzas, mail? Or maybe you just like to drive like crazy! Keep speeds down, and %26quot;slow down%26quot; before getting to your stop! Brake jobs aren't that expensive, but with all four (completely) done at once, probably between $200 - $400 depending on quality of parts (new or used or remanufactured existing parts) and labor.
Good luck!My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Sounds like you make have a problem with your caliper if one side wears out continually before the other side witch depending on the car can be costly If you need a calipers and rotors.Find a good shop you trust that won't rip you off.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
it could a number of things- I'm no mechanic, but I had a popping/ grinding noise while I turned/ stopped my 99 gran prix. The wheel bearings had worn out in first one front, and then the other front tire. $655 later, I was happy againMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
your brakes probley have that sand **** they put on the roads this time of year when u have them changed make shure the dust cover is instald correctly
Thanks,
SteveMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
have the rotors checked, i had same problem, replaced all 4 rotors have no grinding now.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
could be a number of things, also maybe the proportioning valve is bad. it is below the master cylinder where all your brake lines are hooked into. it is suppose to automatically distribute even pressure to all the lines. maybe there is some dirt in the lines. detach them at the calipers 1 at a time and completely bleed the system. i had that happen to me in the past and sounds like exact same thing. this is why it happened at differant times for differant wheelsMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Tires don't have brakes!!!My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
its probably the calipers are hanging up and wearing out the pads,and making a grinding.i never heard of a tire grinding,unless its out of line and wearing into the steel.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
As you didn't tell us the year, model, or mileage, nobody can really suggest anything that would help.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Usually when your brake pads wear completely out, where the pad is gone will chew through the rotor. It should not happen every year though. If your tires are grinding you need to take it in, or you may end up in someones back seat.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Are you in some sort of delivery job? Papers, pizzas, mail? Or maybe you just like to drive like crazy! Keep speeds down, and %26quot;slow down%26quot; before getting to your stop! Brake jobs aren't that expensive, but with all four (completely) done at once, probably between $200 - $400 depending on quality of parts (new or used or remanufactured existing parts) and labor.
Good luck!My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
Sounds like you make have a problem with your caliper if one side wears out continually before the other side witch depending on the car can be costly If you need a calipers and rotors.Find a good shop you trust that won't rip you off.My car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
it could a number of things- I'm no mechanic, but I had a popping/ grinding noise while I turned/ stopped my 99 gran prix. The wheel bearings had worn out in first one front, and then the other front tire. $655 later, I was happy againMy car%26039;s rear right tire%26039;s brakes are grinding, and it%26039;s happened to all my other tires already.. help!
your brakes probley have that sand **** they put on the roads this time of year when u have them changed make shure the dust cover is instald correctly
My back breaks Break unevenly in my 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. What could it be and how can i fix it?
I went to get my inspection done on my vehicle and failed. Because my breaks where %26quot;unbalanced%26quot;. So I took my car to a mechanic with a note saying my breaks where unbalanced. They resurfaced my rotors which were only 6 months old, changed my breaks, and changed the brake fluid. I went back and it failed once again for the same reason. What else could this unbalanced breaks be? From what the guy at the inspection facility explained to me it檚 that my back wheels are breaking unevenly, and that is also what檚 causing my wheel to shake when I do break. Please help! I have a month to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it. Also it's a 2001 hyundai sante fe.!My back breaks Break unevenly in my 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. What could it be and how can i fix it?
I have been in the car business for over 10 years, with Hyundai for over 5 and I have never heard of unbalanced brakes. What I think they may be telling you is your caliper is sticking.
Brake systems are simple. You apply the pedal, fluid is sent to the caliper, a piston extends and pushes the pads against the rotor, slowing the vehicle.
There are generally more problems with rear brakes simply because they don't have to work as hard as the front. I suggest a brake service. The technician should remove the pads and service them and the slides, the caliper assembly is sanded for rust and treated with a special lubricant.
I'm not sure of the regulations in your state, but in NY, you only fail a vehicle inspection if your brakes are metal to metal.
Hyundai suggests front and rear brake services every 15,000 miles.
I have been in the car business for over 10 years, with Hyundai for over 5 and I have never heard of unbalanced brakes. What I think they may be telling you is your caliper is sticking.
Brake systems are simple. You apply the pedal, fluid is sent to the caliper, a piston extends and pushes the pads against the rotor, slowing the vehicle.
There are generally more problems with rear brakes simply because they don't have to work as hard as the front. I suggest a brake service. The technician should remove the pads and service them and the slides, the caliper assembly is sanded for rust and treated with a special lubricant.
I'm not sure of the regulations in your state, but in NY, you only fail a vehicle inspection if your brakes are metal to metal.
Hyundai suggests front and rear brake services every 15,000 miles.
Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
Okay so I am trying to figure out what is going wrong now.. I know the car is 15 yrs old so it's bound to have something go wrong but here recently everything is going wrong!
`Okay we got the brakes, rotors, timing belt changed, all new in February.. we get windshield wipers once a year.. Here recently it seems like everything is going wrong.. We had the muffler fixed in Feb also cause it was loud, they welded it then it came unwelded and went loud again, got it fixed then the car started squealing it needed some new belt.. then things seem ok ....
Then the car didn't start Monday morning so we took it to the mechanic shop and had them tell us what was wrong.. We were all sure it either jumped time or the distributor cap had something wrong with it... it turned out to be the distributor cap and something to do with the rotors (not sure how its spelled) like how they connect maybe to the distributor thing.. but anyway!! that got fixed, we got the car back wednesday afternoon, just drove it home.. the next morning...
We've got squealing again, think its the belt.. when we are driving it is making a squeaky kinda noise. This morning, the windshield wipers started going slower than normal, then just stopped working... head lights and interior lights are dim and when you turn the headlights on the radio shuts off. The windows are power windows and they aren't working.. We were just in the car last night about 6 and everything was working fine. It seems as if after the mechanic fixed stuff... things are just messing up.. of course I'd love to blame him!! Lol
Could you tell me what could be wrong? Someone said something about the alternator.. but I have no clue.. and give me an explanation on why you think it is whatever... and how much you think it could cost.. say under $200 or for sure over.. The heater also isn't working so we are just in some bad luck.. we're lookin to get it fixed now.. luckily we have parents with money that are willing to pay to get it fixed while we pay them back in payments.. otherwise we'd be screwed! We're getting a new vehicle (well used like a 2003) in March so things should be better then. The Honda just gets drove back and forth to and from my husbands work which is 20 miles one way.. we havent took long trips recently but used to all the time like 4 hours back and forth etc. He just goes to work in it and we go to the grocery store which is 5 minutes away.. sometimes we go to the shopping mall 15 minutes away.. so we don't really put a whole lot of wear and tear on it anymore.. we havent took any long trips in almost a year.. but when we did we had NO problems at all besides the normal getting tires and stuff ya know. Then we take it easy on the car and it messes up. I'm so stressed.. but anyways SO sorry for such a LONG post. Any help is greatly appreciated.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
sounds like your drive belt is either loose or missing, which may have caused the battery to go dead.
It's a cheap fix (about$20-30) plus the cost to recharge the battery (if necessary)Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
If the belt was squealing prior to the electrical problem it was probably the alternator belt. the alternator changes mechanical energy (on the pulley from the belt) into electrical energy (through copper spindles) if the belt is loose or burnt so that the alternator is not recharging your battery, you will either need a new belt or tighten it up. Good luck.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
Yeah it's the drive belt belt or the alternator. You could have also have some wires attatching and detatching themselves from the box under the dash. It may have been the mechanics fault. I am a mechanic and they teach us to leave things out so people like you will keep coming back. (no offense) You know with an older car like yours you may just need an engine overhaul but that would cost in upwards of 2-5 grand. I did the smae thing with my 1980 Toyota and it hasn't given me trouble yet, and it's been 4 years. So try anything like that. It works wonders.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
the car cant take it anymore, poor car.
it's wear and tear, check the alternator and alos chech the battery if there is corrosion on the battery wiring. you have put too much money on that car. you could also go to juck yard for parts.
hope that'll help you.structuretoptr Can you quilt a queen on a regular machine
`Okay we got the brakes, rotors, timing belt changed, all new in February.. we get windshield wipers once a year.. Here recently it seems like everything is going wrong.. We had the muffler fixed in Feb also cause it was loud, they welded it then it came unwelded and went loud again, got it fixed then the car started squealing it needed some new belt.. then things seem ok ....
Then the car didn't start Monday morning so we took it to the mechanic shop and had them tell us what was wrong.. We were all sure it either jumped time or the distributor cap had something wrong with it... it turned out to be the distributor cap and something to do with the rotors (not sure how its spelled) like how they connect maybe to the distributor thing.. but anyway!! that got fixed, we got the car back wednesday afternoon, just drove it home.. the next morning...
We've got squealing again, think its the belt.. when we are driving it is making a squeaky kinda noise. This morning, the windshield wipers started going slower than normal, then just stopped working... head lights and interior lights are dim and when you turn the headlights on the radio shuts off. The windows are power windows and they aren't working.. We were just in the car last night about 6 and everything was working fine. It seems as if after the mechanic fixed stuff... things are just messing up.. of course I'd love to blame him!! Lol
Could you tell me what could be wrong? Someone said something about the alternator.. but I have no clue.. and give me an explanation on why you think it is whatever... and how much you think it could cost.. say under $200 or for sure over.. The heater also isn't working so we are just in some bad luck.. we're lookin to get it fixed now.. luckily we have parents with money that are willing to pay to get it fixed while we pay them back in payments.. otherwise we'd be screwed! We're getting a new vehicle (well used like a 2003) in March so things should be better then. The Honda just gets drove back and forth to and from my husbands work which is 20 miles one way.. we havent took long trips recently but used to all the time like 4 hours back and forth etc. He just goes to work in it and we go to the grocery store which is 5 minutes away.. sometimes we go to the shopping mall 15 minutes away.. so we don't really put a whole lot of wear and tear on it anymore.. we havent took any long trips in almost a year.. but when we did we had NO problems at all besides the normal getting tires and stuff ya know. Then we take it easy on the car and it messes up. I'm so stressed.. but anyways SO sorry for such a LONG post. Any help is greatly appreciated.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
sounds like your drive belt is either loose or missing, which may have caused the battery to go dead.
It's a cheap fix (about$20-30) plus the cost to recharge the battery (if necessary)Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
If the belt was squealing prior to the electrical problem it was probably the alternator belt. the alternator changes mechanical energy (on the pulley from the belt) into electrical energy (through copper spindles) if the belt is loose or burnt so that the alternator is not recharging your battery, you will either need a new belt or tighten it up. Good luck.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
Yeah it's the drive belt belt or the alternator. You could have also have some wires attatching and detatching themselves from the box under the dash. It may have been the mechanics fault. I am a mechanic and they teach us to leave things out so people like you will keep coming back. (no offense) You know with an older car like yours you may just need an engine overhaul but that would cost in upwards of 2-5 grand. I did the smae thing with my 1980 Toyota and it hasn't given me trouble yet, and it's been 4 years. So try anything like that. It works wonders.Car troubles, 1995 honda accord, lights dim, speedometer not working, etc... help?
the car cant take it anymore, poor car.
it's wear and tear, check the alternator and alos chech the battery if there is corrosion on the battery wiring. you have put too much money on that car. you could also go to juck yard for parts.
hope that'll help you.
How much does it cost to change the caliper on a 1999 acord?
i brought in my car after hearing a grinding noise coming from my rear passanger wheel for about a week. they told me the calipers were grinded and needed to be changed. they said that since the calipers on my accord alos deal with the emergency brakes that it costs more to change them. changing the caiper, rotor and break pad. it is going to cost me about $550 to fix this. is this right or am i getting ripped off, i dont know anything about cars and feel that this is soooo expensive, should i get a second opinion?How much does it cost to change the caliper on a 1999 acord?
Rear calipers are $58.59 each: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Rear disc $142.43: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Pads (rear, left and right, in a set): $27.14 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Brake Hardware Kit: $7.69 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Brake Pad Shim kit: $8.63 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
So, $244.48 (plus shipping) for non-Honda OEM grade replacement parts, plus 2 hours labor and shop charges (rags, brake fluid, shop consumables), should be about $400.00 to $450.00.
$550.00 with Genuine Honda parts wouldn't surprise me, as they are generally a little more expensive than OEM aftermarket parts.
You should generally repair brakes on both sides of an axle (front or rear) at the same time, however. Trying to cheap this out, if the other side is already worn, can wind up costing you more.
The shame is, had you replaced the pads when they were worn, you wouldn't have needed the caliper or the disc rotor, which are the expensive parts. You could have replaced pads on all 4 wheels, and had your rotors machined true if they needed it, for $100.00.How much does it cost to change the caliper on a 1999 acord?
YES! get a second estimate..What harm could it do? you might hurt the 1st mechanics feelings. Rotors yes, caliper? I'd need more info.
Rear calipers are $58.59 each: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Rear disc $142.43: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Pads (rear, left and right, in a set): $27.14 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Brake Hardware Kit: $7.69 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
Brake Pad Shim kit: $8.63 http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.p
So, $244.48 (plus shipping) for non-Honda OEM grade replacement parts, plus 2 hours labor and shop charges (rags, brake fluid, shop consumables), should be about $400.00 to $450.00.
$550.00 with Genuine Honda parts wouldn't surprise me, as they are generally a little more expensive than OEM aftermarket parts.
You should generally repair brakes on both sides of an axle (front or rear) at the same time, however. Trying to cheap this out, if the other side is already worn, can wind up costing you more.
The shame is, had you replaced the pads when they were worn, you wouldn't have needed the caliper or the disc rotor, which are the expensive parts. You could have replaced pads on all 4 wheels, and had your rotors machined true if they needed it, for $100.00.How much does it cost to change the caliper on a 1999 acord?
YES! get a second estimate..What harm could it do? you might hurt the 1st mechanics feelings. Rotors yes, caliper? I'd need more info.
What is wrong with my breaks?
i went to a mechanic to change my brake pads.
wagner premium ceramic brake pads.
anyways, all of a sudden i noticed a weird noise.
when i have my foot on the brake at a red light, if i step on it harder, i hear a weird noise, like i dont know how to explain it. but im sure its the brake pad going on the rotor or something...
also, sometimes when im making a turn, and the wheel is completely turned, i hear a knocking or clicking noise.
its a 2002 Mustang, which makes it a rear wheel drive if this helps any to concluding your answer.
thanks.What is wrong with my breaks?
It sounds as if one of the new brake pads is loose. Maybe one of the retainer clips has broken. You need to get it back to the mechanic ASAP.What is wrong with my breaks?
could be an actual problem with the brake pads themselvesWhat is wrong with my breaks?
you did not say if the mechanic repaired the brakes. if he did then go back to himWhat is wrong with my breaks?
1 ABS lite on? may be sensor making abs system work
2 caliper sticking..dont ignore it,,a draging caliper can wreck pad and rotor [[cost me 200 because i ignored the rubbing sound]What is wrong with my breaks?
ok so im not an expert but me and my father fix up our cars together and i would suggest that you immediately stop driving it or you might break something. it doesnt seem like a coincidence that the mechanic just worked on it. i would take it back to him and let him or another professional know and look into it right away.
wagner premium ceramic brake pads.
anyways, all of a sudden i noticed a weird noise.
when i have my foot on the brake at a red light, if i step on it harder, i hear a weird noise, like i dont know how to explain it. but im sure its the brake pad going on the rotor or something...
also, sometimes when im making a turn, and the wheel is completely turned, i hear a knocking or clicking noise.
its a 2002 Mustang, which makes it a rear wheel drive if this helps any to concluding your answer.
thanks.What is wrong with my breaks?
It sounds as if one of the new brake pads is loose. Maybe one of the retainer clips has broken. You need to get it back to the mechanic ASAP.What is wrong with my breaks?
could be an actual problem with the brake pads themselvesWhat is wrong with my breaks?
you did not say if the mechanic repaired the brakes. if he did then go back to himWhat is wrong with my breaks?
1 ABS lite on? may be sensor making abs system work
2 caliper sticking..dont ignore it,,a draging caliper can wreck pad and rotor [[cost me 200 because i ignored the rubbing sound]What is wrong with my breaks?
ok so im not an expert but me and my father fix up our cars together and i would suggest that you immediately stop driving it or you might break something. it doesnt seem like a coincidence that the mechanic just worked on it. i would take it back to him and let him or another professional know and look into it right away.
Should I change my car brakes?
, I bought some brakes for my 92 toyota paseo, but today just to make sure I should put some new ones on, I went to my local mechanic that has worked on my car for about 6 years, and he looked through my rims and said that it looked like I still had 60% life in my brakes, but about 2 minutes ago hs assistant said 40%, but the guy who said 60% is the main mechanic(the smarter one). How can they tell I have that much left, I barely see a small gab in between the rotor and the caliper.Should I change my car brakes?
Take it to a brake shop for a free inspection. They will take of the tires and actually measure the remaining life.
BUT since both mechanics said 40% or more there is no need to change them now...Should I change my car brakes?
Take the first mechinc's word for it. It would of been real easy for him to say that you need them now and make the money off you.Should I change my car brakes?
no dont change them yetShould I change my car brakes?
Both guys were just guesstimating the wear on your pads. And besides, there isn't much difference between 40% and 50%. It sounds like they are at least half gone and I would replace them. They don't cost that much and it's a pretty simple fix. You'll have less brake fade and the car will stop better. If you need another reason, the brakes aren't real big on this vehicle to keep weight down and your driving habits may make the pads wear quicker. Just do it.
Take it to a brake shop for a free inspection. They will take of the tires and actually measure the remaining life.
BUT since both mechanics said 40% or more there is no need to change them now...Should I change my car brakes?
Take the first mechinc's word for it. It would of been real easy for him to say that you need them now and make the money off you.Should I change my car brakes?
no dont change them yetShould I change my car brakes?
Both guys were just guesstimating the wear on your pads. And besides, there isn't much difference between 40% and 50%. It sounds like they are at least half gone and I would replace them. They don't cost that much and it's a pretty simple fix. You'll have less brake fade and the car will stop better. If you need another reason, the brakes aren't real big on this vehicle to keep weight down and your driving habits may make the pads wear quicker. Just do it.
Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
I have a 2000 mercury cougar v6 2.5L. I took it to firestone and they said i need to change the rotors in the front and rear rotors pitted ans roasted, brake fluid flush...those were the notes he wrote .for my car and he said itll cost 862$!!! i was like wo ill see if i ca find it cheaper somewhere else. but cant i order the parts and pay som1 to do it myselfCar Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
Cars are a constant money pit. You're either making payments or paying for repairs. You're 9 years from your car's production date, and if this is the first time you've replaced rotors, you're doing well.
If you don't have the money for rotors, ask if they're warped, or only scored. If they're only scored, you can either have them surfaced, or just slam in some brake pads knowing they'll wear prematurely (you'll get about half the life out of them). When I was a young man, I ran rotors regardless of how scored they were, I had better things to do with my non-union factory worker paycheck.
Having them resurfaced is best, but some rotors are only surface hardened, and the specs are so limited, they almost never can be resurfaced.
If you're going to do it yourself, find out before you take it apart if any special tools are required, or if there's anything peculiar about your particular car that you should know.
I don't currently own a car with disc brakes, and back when I did they were pretty straightforward, but my son in law just spend a small fortune on new calipers because he tried to push the pistons back in the usual way with a C-clamp, but there was a high-tech limiter because of the anti-lock brakes and unless the piston was turned before it was pushed, it damaged the mechanism. So be careful.
As far as changing the brake fluid, it depends on how long you intend to keep the car. Years ago I thought I was the only guy in the world who actually changed brake fluid every presidential election (once every 4 years). Brake fluid absorbs water out of the atmosphere, and over time, the wheel cylinders or calipers will begin to corrode from the inside out. Wheel cylinders leak before they seize, but calipers seize before they leak, which is probably why your mechanic advised you to change it out.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
wow, the rotors for that car are about 60-80 per, for that car, the rest is labor fee.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
That's sounds about twice the price I think.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
What was the original problem with your car that caused you to take it to a shop?
Try taking it to a Mercury dealer and see what they think needs fixing, and what they charge, and compare.
I don't trust those tire and brake shops. They tend to be dishonest.
Dealers with factory certification are more trustworthy. Try the Mercury web site to locate a dealer.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
you can buy the rotors for about 60 to 80 bucks pay 5 to 10 to have them re-surface and install your self if you know how .. as far as brake fluid flush that's just a waste .. i've own vehi for about 15 years never did a flush and never had a problem ..Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
Yes,you can do it your self.Get another opinion from another mechanic before you spend any money.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
I agree to not let them to the work that is way too much for a simple brake job. I would find or ask someone you know that is a mechanic and have them help you do the brake job. as for the flush I would only change it if the fluid is dark brown or black. If you do need a flush it only takes about 15-20 minutes to flush the whole system.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
Your local parts store can hook you up with the correct parts. You will need to know if you car has anti-lock brakes, and what engine and trans it has. They can also sell you a repair manual for your specific car, which will help you to fix it yourself. You might also ask some friends or co-workers, if they know how to do it. You might get it done real cheap if a friend can do it. I would not waste money on the flush, unless there is metal shavings visible in the master cylinder.
Cars are a constant money pit. You're either making payments or paying for repairs. You're 9 years from your car's production date, and if this is the first time you've replaced rotors, you're doing well.
If you don't have the money for rotors, ask if they're warped, or only scored. If they're only scored, you can either have them surfaced, or just slam in some brake pads knowing they'll wear prematurely (you'll get about half the life out of them). When I was a young man, I ran rotors regardless of how scored they were, I had better things to do with my non-union factory worker paycheck.
Having them resurfaced is best, but some rotors are only surface hardened, and the specs are so limited, they almost never can be resurfaced.
If you're going to do it yourself, find out before you take it apart if any special tools are required, or if there's anything peculiar about your particular car that you should know.
I don't currently own a car with disc brakes, and back when I did they were pretty straightforward, but my son in law just spend a small fortune on new calipers because he tried to push the pistons back in the usual way with a C-clamp, but there was a high-tech limiter because of the anti-lock brakes and unless the piston was turned before it was pushed, it damaged the mechanism. So be careful.
As far as changing the brake fluid, it depends on how long you intend to keep the car. Years ago I thought I was the only guy in the world who actually changed brake fluid every presidential election (once every 4 years). Brake fluid absorbs water out of the atmosphere, and over time, the wheel cylinders or calipers will begin to corrode from the inside out. Wheel cylinders leak before they seize, but calipers seize before they leak, which is probably why your mechanic advised you to change it out.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
wow, the rotors for that car are about 60-80 per, for that car, the rest is labor fee.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
That's sounds about twice the price I think.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
What was the original problem with your car that caused you to take it to a shop?
Try taking it to a Mercury dealer and see what they think needs fixing, and what they charge, and compare.
I don't trust those tire and brake shops. They tend to be dishonest.
Dealers with factory certification are more trustworthy. Try the Mercury web site to locate a dealer.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
you can buy the rotors for about 60 to 80 bucks pay 5 to 10 to have them re-surface and install your self if you know how .. as far as brake fluid flush that's just a waste .. i've own vehi for about 15 years never did a flush and never had a problem ..Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
Yes,you can do it your self.Get another opinion from another mechanic before you spend any money.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
I agree to not let them to the work that is way too much for a simple brake job. I would find or ask someone you know that is a mechanic and have them help you do the brake job. as for the flush I would only change it if the fluid is dark brown or black. If you do need a flush it only takes about 15-20 minutes to flush the whole system.Car Trouble! how to pick te right rotor?
Your local parts store can hook you up with the correct parts. You will need to know if you car has anti-lock brakes, and what engine and trans it has. They can also sell you a repair manual for your specific car, which will help you to fix it yourself. You might also ask some friends or co-workers, if they know how to do it. You might get it done real cheap if a friend can do it. I would not waste money on the flush, unless there is metal shavings visible in the master cylinder.
Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger. 2wd not sure of 4 or 2 wheel anti-lock. It is the 4cyl, 2.5L. Just would like some advice/help on new rotors and pads for the front, and how to go about changing them.
would it be better to get more expensive rotors or pads? should I just get factor parts? Should I just get some one to do it? I have the tools just not 100% knowledge.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Ford brakes are easy to change, jackup your truck,remove the wheel then, look at the caliper, it holds both disk pads in place,look at the sliding bar on top of the breaks you will see two bolts about 1/2 size take these 2 bolts out,then tap the caliper down until the top (where the slide bar is) clears the slot in the top,then pull the caliper off and the old pads will fall out (remember which pad is in and which pad is out) then take a C-clamp and using one of the old pads push the plunger(the thing that shoves the brake pads) back so the new pads will go over the disk brake rotary, then install the new brake pads and put everthing back together just as it come apart. Now since you pushed the plunger in the caliper back with the c-clamp you didn't lose much brake fluid at all, so now you will not have to bleed the brakes just check to see if you need to add more brake fluid. Then when you get ready to move your truck remember to pump your brakes a few time before you move the truck, if you forget to pump your brakes the first time you hit your brakes you may not have any.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Go to any major auto store and they should sell repair manuals for most models. As for the brake parts, always go for top quality, since inferior brakes can cause accidents. Also, get ceramic brakes since they perform better and leave less brake dust.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
i would get the cheaper pads but more expensive rotors they are less likely to warp dont but factory.i had 95 blazer and they would have to be changed erery 30,000 milesAdvice on front brake parts and replacing them?
1 Your vehicle's braking ability is extremely crucial to your safety as well as the motorist around you; so have someone who is 100% knowledgeable to work on them
2 If you don't have any extinuating circumstances in the way which you drive your vehicle, factory parts are always the best way to go. Besides, the more expensive brake pads, such as the ceramic ones, only eat up the rotors to the point that they are unusable by the time the next brake service comes.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
first.you will need to find out if it has torsion bar or front coil spring suspension. rotors and pads are different between the two. should put on ceramic pads if avaiable for your truck..Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Book writer has got it. the only thing I would add is if your rotor's are groved find an auto parts store that turns rotor's. Should be about 5$ - 15$ a rotor. They come off easily once the caliper is off. Just pull.bath towel smell bad straight hair
would it be better to get more expensive rotors or pads? should I just get factor parts? Should I just get some one to do it? I have the tools just not 100% knowledge.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Ford brakes are easy to change, jackup your truck,remove the wheel then, look at the caliper, it holds both disk pads in place,look at the sliding bar on top of the breaks you will see two bolts about 1/2 size take these 2 bolts out,then tap the caliper down until the top (where the slide bar is) clears the slot in the top,then pull the caliper off and the old pads will fall out (remember which pad is in and which pad is out) then take a C-clamp and using one of the old pads push the plunger(the thing that shoves the brake pads) back so the new pads will go over the disk brake rotary, then install the new brake pads and put everthing back together just as it come apart. Now since you pushed the plunger in the caliper back with the c-clamp you didn't lose much brake fluid at all, so now you will not have to bleed the brakes just check to see if you need to add more brake fluid. Then when you get ready to move your truck remember to pump your brakes a few time before you move the truck, if you forget to pump your brakes the first time you hit your brakes you may not have any.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Go to any major auto store and they should sell repair manuals for most models. As for the brake parts, always go for top quality, since inferior brakes can cause accidents. Also, get ceramic brakes since they perform better and leave less brake dust.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
i would get the cheaper pads but more expensive rotors they are less likely to warp dont but factory.i had 95 blazer and they would have to be changed erery 30,000 milesAdvice on front brake parts and replacing them?
1 Your vehicle's braking ability is extremely crucial to your safety as well as the motorist around you; so have someone who is 100% knowledgeable to work on them
2 If you don't have any extinuating circumstances in the way which you drive your vehicle, factory parts are always the best way to go. Besides, the more expensive brake pads, such as the ceramic ones, only eat up the rotors to the point that they are unusable by the time the next brake service comes.Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
first.you will need to find out if it has torsion bar or front coil spring suspension. rotors and pads are different between the two. should put on ceramic pads if avaiable for your truck..Advice on front brake parts and replacing them?
Book writer has got it. the only thing I would add is if your rotor's are groved find an auto parts store that turns rotor's. Should be about 5$ - 15$ a rotor. They come off easily once the caliper is off. Just pull.
How expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
in my 91 park avenue? I was told by a midas machanic that my left tire, that the ball joints are going bad (hence my car sways side to side when driving) but i was curious as to what it would cost me? and is it an easy enough fix where a %26quot;non mechanic%26quot; like my self can fix? ( i've changed my own brakes %26quot;rotors and drum brakes%26quot; aswell as fixed other problems i've had w/ the engine....this is my second car and I'd be more than happy w/ having the mechanical lesson, but it's almost october and it's getting pretty cold in michingan. thanks yaHow expensive would it be to replace ball joints?
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
Get yourself a book first of all, and see what it looks like to replace them.You should have a book for it anyhow.
I mark where the old ball joints are with a scribe or white out before unbolting them, and put the new ones in the same place, then go get aligned.
Not too expensive for ball joints, probably about $40 a side, but you should really check alignment afterwards.Minor/intermediate job.
How to remove a stripped bolt?
I was changing the front brakes and rotors on a 2003 Ford Taurus. Driver side went well but on the passenger side did not. I removed the 2 bolts holding the caliper in place but 1 of the 2 bolts holding the rotor in place (don't know the name of it) gave me a lot of trouble.
I was using my socket wrench to remove the bolt but it would not budge. I used my hammer to try and get it to give but the socket ended up stripping the bolt head. Any ideas on how to remove a stripped bolt?How to remove a stripped bolt?
Jordan's answer is the best one.
In future, purchase a longer-handled socket wrench (sears sells a VERY handy %26quot;extendible%26quot; socket wrench, that I have and love http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605 , or use a %26quot;breaker bar%26quot; which will increase your leverage on the socket. Basically, a breaker bar is just a long steel pipe that slips onto the handle of the socket wrench to increase your leverage.How to remove a stripped bolt?
Were you using a full hex socket, if your were not then try to find one it may come out with that.
Failing that snap on and the like make flank drive sockets that drive on the sides of the nut/bolt head and not the corners.
Before trying again get a large punch on the head and belt it with a hammer to shock the bolt this can be used to good effect to help loosen the bolt.How to remove a stripped bolt?
Try the vice grip, but make sure the head is all the way down in the bottom of the jaws. Adjust the grip as tight as you can make it and still get it closed. Spray some W9-40 on the threads (not the head) and let it soak a while. You won't hurt the head any more than you already have. You should replace it anyway or it will give you trouble the next time too.How to remove a stripped bolt?
you could by a bolt out kit from craftsman or it you take a hammer and a chisel, you can make a good notch in the edge of the bolt head, and then once you have done that angle the chisel so that when you hit it, it is going to turn the bolt out. this works really when, when done correctly because of the force. it is better than the bolt out. or you could try a vice grips.
good luckHow to remove a stripped bolt?
6%26quot; pipe wrench, if you can get at it,
grind/cut head off
grind/cut slot in head for screw driver
tack weld another bolt to it, then use that with wrench.
in any case, you need to use heat/and-or/penetrating oil to break loose. else youll just keep getting pxxssed off.How to remove a stripped bolt?
soak it in PB Blaster and give the vice grips a try- or one of those sockets designed to grip stripped bolts.
if you stripped it with a socket that means you had the wrong sized socket on it. be more careful, but sometimes these things are unavoidable.How to remove a stripped bolt?
The first thing you should do is call the Ford dealer and make sure they have one (or 4) of those bolts in stock. If not, get it ordered.
WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Get some good penetrating oil and soak it several times over a day or so. I'm guessing you want to be able to drive the car soon, but the longer and more often you can soak the bolt, the better. While you're at the parts store, get some anti-seize thread compound so this doesn't happen with the new bolt.
If there is nothing heat-sensitive around/behind this bolt, sometimes a good heating with a propane torch helps break rusty bolts free. But if this is on a brake rotor, it's already seen a lot of heating and cooling cycles in its life, so I would probably skip the torch.
Vice grips suck. If you couldn't budge it with a proper socket and ratchet, the vice grips are just going to make it worse.
If the corners are just rounded off a bit, I would stick to using sockets. If your old socket was a 12-point, get one that's 6-sided. And get the proper size. For an '03 Taurus, it should be metric. I don't know which bolts you're talking about, so I can't guess the size. Maybe take the new bolt from the dealership to the store and get the socket to fit. If it won't go on anymore due to the stripped corners, pound it on with the hammer. Just don't hit it so hard that you'll damage the socket.
If it really won't come out, Sears sells those fluted bolt remover sockets. Honestly my experiences have been mixed with them, but sometimes they work.
Assuming the bolt head is still intact after all this, do you know anybody with a welder? You can weld a larger nut to the bolt head, then use a socket on that nut to turn the bolt.
I was using my socket wrench to remove the bolt but it would not budge. I used my hammer to try and get it to give but the socket ended up stripping the bolt head. Any ideas on how to remove a stripped bolt?How to remove a stripped bolt?
Jordan's answer is the best one.
In future, purchase a longer-handled socket wrench (sears sells a VERY handy %26quot;extendible%26quot; socket wrench, that I have and love http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605 , or use a %26quot;breaker bar%26quot; which will increase your leverage on the socket. Basically, a breaker bar is just a long steel pipe that slips onto the handle of the socket wrench to increase your leverage.How to remove a stripped bolt?
Were you using a full hex socket, if your were not then try to find one it may come out with that.
Failing that snap on and the like make flank drive sockets that drive on the sides of the nut/bolt head and not the corners.
Before trying again get a large punch on the head and belt it with a hammer to shock the bolt this can be used to good effect to help loosen the bolt.How to remove a stripped bolt?
Try the vice grip, but make sure the head is all the way down in the bottom of the jaws. Adjust the grip as tight as you can make it and still get it closed. Spray some W9-40 on the threads (not the head) and let it soak a while. You won't hurt the head any more than you already have. You should replace it anyway or it will give you trouble the next time too.How to remove a stripped bolt?
you could by a bolt out kit from craftsman or it you take a hammer and a chisel, you can make a good notch in the edge of the bolt head, and then once you have done that angle the chisel so that when you hit it, it is going to turn the bolt out. this works really when, when done correctly because of the force. it is better than the bolt out. or you could try a vice grips.
good luckHow to remove a stripped bolt?
6%26quot; pipe wrench, if you can get at it,
grind/cut head off
grind/cut slot in head for screw driver
tack weld another bolt to it, then use that with wrench.
in any case, you need to use heat/and-or/penetrating oil to break loose. else youll just keep getting pxxssed off.How to remove a stripped bolt?
soak it in PB Blaster and give the vice grips a try- or one of those sockets designed to grip stripped bolts.
if you stripped it with a socket that means you had the wrong sized socket on it. be more careful, but sometimes these things are unavoidable.How to remove a stripped bolt?
The first thing you should do is call the Ford dealer and make sure they have one (or 4) of those bolts in stock. If not, get it ordered.
WD40 is not a penetrating oil. Get some good penetrating oil and soak it several times over a day or so. I'm guessing you want to be able to drive the car soon, but the longer and more often you can soak the bolt, the better. While you're at the parts store, get some anti-seize thread compound so this doesn't happen with the new bolt.
If there is nothing heat-sensitive around/behind this bolt, sometimes a good heating with a propane torch helps break rusty bolts free. But if this is on a brake rotor, it's already seen a lot of heating and cooling cycles in its life, so I would probably skip the torch.
Vice grips suck. If you couldn't budge it with a proper socket and ratchet, the vice grips are just going to make it worse.
If the corners are just rounded off a bit, I would stick to using sockets. If your old socket was a 12-point, get one that's 6-sided. And get the proper size. For an '03 Taurus, it should be metric. I don't know which bolts you're talking about, so I can't guess the size. Maybe take the new bolt from the dealership to the store and get the socket to fit. If it won't go on anymore due to the stripped corners, pound it on with the hammer. Just don't hit it so hard that you'll damage the socket.
If it really won't come out, Sears sells those fluted bolt remover sockets. Honestly my experiences have been mixed with them, but sometimes they work.
Assuming the bolt head is still intact after all this, do you know anybody with a welder? You can weld a larger nut to the bolt head, then use a socket on that nut to turn the bolt.
Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
I recently changed the two front brake pads for the first time and followed everything correctly and was fairly simple job. The brakes were fairly worn down on my truck so I decided it was time. I did not disconnect the brake lines but I did spill some brake fluid out of the master cylinder while compressing the dual pistons on one of the calipers.
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
I've read that this problem is typical of air bubbles and will proceed with bleeding the brakes, but I don't know how they would have entered the system. Also could this problem be a result of dirty fluid? The fluid is dark brown and hasn't been changed in awhile so I'm going to flush the fluid as I bleed the brakes and see if that helps.
Also the rotors looked good with no grooves, dings but there was some minor discoloration in on one of the rotors, and I tried cleaning but did not go away. But I believe I did not have spongy brakes prior to replacing pads so I dont think the rotors are the cause.
Could there be any other cause then besides air bubbles that I should check or address? Are spongy brakes a safety issue?
Thanks!Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
The spongy brakes is a result of air in the brake lines, it usually takes 2 people who know how to bleed brakes to do this. It is a safety issue with having air in the brake lines, you may not be able to stop as fast as you normally would. If you are not sure on how to bleed the brakes take it to your mechanic and for a hour worth of labor he can have the brakes bled and the truck ready to go on the road.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Possible air in system, faulty master cylinder, or the seal in your caliper/wheel cylinder has broke causing brake fluid to leak out.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You got air in the system.
Just bleed the system this will fix it.
Good luckCause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
Bleed all the calipers and the master cylinder. This will remove air however it might have gotten in the lines. This should be done every few years anyway to remove condensation which can corrode the pistons and brake cylinders. Don't worry about the rotors. Clean up the brake fluid asap as it will permanently stain the paint. It's already too late- stains . stains. stains.. The color on the rotor indicates excess heat at some time or other.Cause of spongy brakes after new front brake pad installation on 1984 Ford F250?
You are doing the right thing. Use ONLY genuine Ford brake fluid. Different brake fluids have different chemicals in them, and many are NOT compatible with each other. When the fluid gets dark brown, it IS time to replace it. It has absorbed all the moisture it can, safely. Also, it is possible that the brake pads you are using were not engineered to be used with your factory rotors. This can make it fell spongy. Do you have anti-lock brakes??? Probably not. Check for wear on your back brakes, as well. You might have a leak in your rear wheel cylinders (if so equipped). Good Luck!!
How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
I need to get my rear brakes/rotors, one ball joint, two rear wheel bolts, and my serpentine belt replaced. I also need an oil change. How much should all this cost to fix including labor? Thanks!How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
it will most likely run about 600.00 to 800.00 dollars. you can also go into a shop and get a written estimate. and that is at no charge. make sure it includes the price of parts and book time labor.. book time labor is the recommended time to make repairs to your car. the ball joint is about an hour, the belt is about an hour, half hour for each wheel stud, and about 2.5 hours for your rear brakes depending on the e-brake shoes. good luck!!How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
Parts, you're looking at about 300$ from autozone, expect about 350$ from an independent shop, 450$ from the dealer. I'd estimate about 5 hours of labor by the book, at 65$ an hour which is what most independent shops charge, you're looking at about 325$ in labor. The dealer may charge as much as 100$ an hour, sometimes more.How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
around 300 usd should be fairHow much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
What the heck happened to your car?
Rear brakes+ rotors (oem replacement around 150); ball joint at least 100, wheel bolts? Under 20. Serp belt about 30-40. But the installation is going to kill you 4 hours by book? About that...
At least 500 altogether at an indy shop.
it will most likely run about 600.00 to 800.00 dollars. you can also go into a shop and get a written estimate. and that is at no charge. make sure it includes the price of parts and book time labor.. book time labor is the recommended time to make repairs to your car. the ball joint is about an hour, the belt is about an hour, half hour for each wheel stud, and about 2.5 hours for your rear brakes depending on the e-brake shoes. good luck!!How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
Parts, you're looking at about 300$ from autozone, expect about 350$ from an independent shop, 450$ from the dealer. I'd estimate about 5 hours of labor by the book, at 65$ an hour which is what most independent shops charge, you're looking at about 325$ in labor. The dealer may charge as much as 100$ an hour, sometimes more.How much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
around 300 usd should be fairHow much will it cost to replace brakes, ball joint, wheel bolts and belt for a 99 VW beatle?
What the heck happened to your car?
Rear brakes+ rotors (oem replacement around 150); ball joint at least 100, wheel bolts? Under 20. Serp belt about 30-40. But the installation is going to kill you 4 hours by book? About that...
At least 500 altogether at an indy shop.
How to change wheels studs on 97 ford escort?
i took my brake caliper off and rotor and there is no room to tap the studs out from my hub. ive tried to take off the hub but it simply wont loosen. is there a special tool needed to take off my hub? or should i resort to heating up the nut that holds the hub on?How to change wheels studs on 97 ford escort?
If the nut will not loosen I would simply heat the nut up to remove it.You can but the nuts at a parts store but most likely there will be no need to replace it.blue hair java
If the nut will not loosen I would simply heat the nut up to remove it.You can but the nuts at a parts store but most likely there will be no need to replace it.
How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
1.)Order 4 SUV tires and put on vehicle
2.) Do a brake job- probably rotors and pads- both axles
3.) Change the camshaft sensor...(causing check engine light)-Engine: 4.0 OHV
The vehicle is a 1999 ford explorer. How long would it take to get this done? On average..How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
one afternoon. mounting and balancing tires should only take a half hour, and thats if hes really slow. checking and servicing brakes: around an hour. and camshaft sensor change shouldnt take more than an hour either. so drop it off in the afternoon, and pick it up at closing time.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
All he has to do is goto and tire shop and buy them, or they will usually deliver within an hour.
The whole job would take about 2-3 hours if the tech is experienced.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
brake job 3-4 hours even 4 wheel drive
change tires 1 hr -tire shop or costco
change camshaft sensor 1hr
one days workHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
i am a mechanic at a tire shop.it should only take a shop 30 min to do tiers and usually they would have another mechanic do the brakes and the brakes should take about 45 min. and the sensor would only take 15 min. so about an hour at the most that's how we do it in our shopHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
It depends if you go somewhere with the tires already but it could take 3 days tops to get the tires in after ordering them. Brake job would take tops of 4-5 hours and sensor i am not sure but you shold go to
American Muffler
2471 Broad Ave
Memphis, TN 38112 Map
(901) 323-9511
or
American Muffler li
3766 Lamar Ave.
Memphis, TN 38118
(90)-362-8240
2.) Do a brake job- probably rotors and pads- both axles
3.) Change the camshaft sensor...(causing check engine light)-Engine: 4.0 OHV
The vehicle is a 1999 ford explorer. How long would it take to get this done? On average..How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
one afternoon. mounting and balancing tires should only take a half hour, and thats if hes really slow. checking and servicing brakes: around an hour. and camshaft sensor change shouldnt take more than an hour either. so drop it off in the afternoon, and pick it up at closing time.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
All he has to do is goto and tire shop and buy them, or they will usually deliver within an hour.
The whole job would take about 2-3 hours if the tech is experienced.How long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
brake job 3-4 hours even 4 wheel drive
change tires 1 hr -tire shop or costco
change camshaft sensor 1hr
one days workHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
i am a mechanic at a tire shop.it should only take a shop 30 min to do tiers and usually they would have another mechanic do the brakes and the brakes should take about 45 min. and the sensor would only take 15 min. so about an hour at the most that's how we do it in our shopHow long would it take a mechanic to do these repairs?
It depends if you go somewhere with the tires already but it could take 3 days tops to get the tires in after ordering them. Brake job would take tops of 4-5 hours and sensor i am not sure but you shold go to
American Muffler
2471 Broad Ave
Memphis, TN 38112 Map
(901) 323-9511
or
American Muffler li
3766 Lamar Ave.
Memphis, TN 38118
(90)-362-8240
1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
I was driving my CRX when she died on me. I got her to start again later, but ran extremely rough. After checking most things i found Oil in my coolant (radiator %26amp; Overflow) No coolant in my oil though. Automatically i'm thinking head gasket. I've worked on cars b4 doing small things (oil changes, plugs, wires, rotors, brakes, struts, water pump) How hard is it to do a head Gasket on 1986 CRX? Has anyone ever done one? Shes a cool little go kart of a car and does great on gas. Any advice/direction or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
2004 Dodge Neon Advice?
Hi I have a 2004 dodge neon SXT 2.0L I recenlty purchased it back in Oct 2009 the dealership said that they changed the brake pads and the shoes (it was even stated on the safety inspection sheet) but I noticed that my front brakes squeak when I almost come to a full stop. Also I noticed last night that there is a faint grinding noice when I drive on my drivers side. My boyfriends dad and brother said it is probably the brake pads or the rotors but how can that be when the dealership just changed them?? Please any advice would help! Thanks2004 Dodge Neon Advice?
Hmmm. If they actually changed them it is probably brake dust causing the squeak and as for the grind it could be a tab hitting rotor. However if you bought this car in October...take it back and ask them POLTELY to check it out. If they value you as a customer they will do this without a question and apologize for the problem. Remember, be nice till its time not to be. Good Luck2004 Dodge Neon Advice?
Low quality pads,take it back to the dealer it is still under warranty, it is a safety issue and they have to be on top of it, by law. You can see through the holes on the rims and tell if the pads are new or the rotors have been cut, good luck
Hmmm. If they actually changed them it is probably brake dust causing the squeak and as for the grind it could be a tab hitting rotor. However if you bought this car in October...take it back and ask them POLTELY to check it out. If they value you as a customer they will do this without a question and apologize for the problem. Remember, be nice till its time not to be. Good Luck2004 Dodge Neon Advice?
Low quality pads,take it back to the dealer it is still under warranty, it is a safety issue and they have to be on top of it, by law. You can see through the holes on the rims and tell if the pads are new or the rotors have been cut, good luck
How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
My corolla has 60,000 km's on it and the dealership is telling me the pads need to be replaced. I have not noticed anything wrong with them, no noise, no squeaks. Also if I get them changed do I need to get the rotors machined? And how much extra should that cost?How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
60,000 km on one set of pads is better than average actually.
When do you change tires? When the wear indicators show or when the belts start showing through the tire?
If you wait til they squeek they will score your rotors; then you'll HAVE TO get them machined.
You probably only need the front brakes done. BUT ...
... take their advice if they say all four, they aren't trying to rip you off. Do you want your car out of service twice for brake pads? Have they ripped you off before? Why so paranoid now then? If you haven't gotten good service take it to a different dealer. They'll give you the worn out pads to take home if you want proof of how much they are worn.
Get used to the concept of %26quot;operating cost%26quot;. Buying a car is just the beginning.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
wow im surprised they lasted that long. that means you are a good driver. yes you should get the rotors machined and that should generally be included in the price of the brake job. about $150-$175 should do it, depending on where you live.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
not sure how far 60,000km's is,but if you do have the brakes done before you hear the metal to metal rub your rotors should be fineHow long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
It really depends on your driving habits. If you drive highway mostly then you may not need brakes, if you do a lot of in town driving then you MIGHT. You should have a mechanic that you trust check the brakes. If you do need them then get the rotors machined, it wont cost that much more and it will prolong the life of the new brakes.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
I have 45,000 miles on one car, 65,000 miles on another and one truck has 80,000 miles on the brake pads. They all stop good and I check the pads from time to time to make sure they look all right. If the pads look good and you are not having problems, I wouldn't change them. You have about 40,000 miles (60,000 km) and that means you don't ride your brakes so you should be able to go around 100,000 miles (161,000 km) before anything need to be done.
And brakes are one thing I don't take any chances with on a car. If there is any danger I get them fixed.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
if you have gone 60,000 miles without new pads until now you are doing good. And yes you want to have the rotors turned. i dont know what dealers charge but anywhere else probably under 100.00 or you could do it yourself for under $50.00.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
I have a 2000 Tundra, I have put over 140,000 miles on it many of them pulling (and stopping) heavy loads. The brake pads are still good. So 60,000 km would be a short life in my experience. And yes you should hear the squeaking if they are nearing the end of their life.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
Brake lining life depends on your driving habits and also what material they are made of. If these are the original linings, you definitely got your money's worth out of them. I would go ahead and have the brakes replaced and the rotors/drums refaced even if you don't feel any brake pedal fluctuation. The cost for rotor/drum refacing varies,but it could be upwards of $20 USD. Rotors have a minimum thickness and drums have a maximum diameter before replacing. If that's so, you can expect to pay even more. Besides, you can't put a price on safety. Remember: All go and no whoa ruins your day.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
60000 Kilometers = 37284 Miles (for those who dont know)
I would suggest having an ASE certified mechaninc replace your pads, then, ask him for his opinion of weather or not the rotors need mechined. My personal thoughts will be that they dont need to be. But hey everyone thinks different, this is just my opinion.
Replacing your pads before you hear them squeak or grind is safer then waiting till they are telling you they need it.
And a side note to the guy who %26quot;claims%26quot; he has put 140,000 Miles on his truck pulling loads and not replaced his pads, your about as irresponsible as they come, you are endangering other lives by running that risk. if you want to pull loads with a truck (and judgin from your comment I guess you dont) you have the responsibility of ensuring your brakes are good, not just %26quot;hoping%26quot; they dont give out this time you try to stop.
60,000 km on one set of pads is better than average actually.
When do you change tires? When the wear indicators show or when the belts start showing through the tire?
If you wait til they squeek they will score your rotors; then you'll HAVE TO get them machined.
You probably only need the front brakes done. BUT ...
... take their advice if they say all four, they aren't trying to rip you off. Do you want your car out of service twice for brake pads? Have they ripped you off before? Why so paranoid now then? If you haven't gotten good service take it to a different dealer. They'll give you the worn out pads to take home if you want proof of how much they are worn.
Get used to the concept of %26quot;operating cost%26quot;. Buying a car is just the beginning.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
wow im surprised they lasted that long. that means you are a good driver. yes you should get the rotors machined and that should generally be included in the price of the brake job. about $150-$175 should do it, depending on where you live.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
not sure how far 60,000km's is,but if you do have the brakes done before you hear the metal to metal rub your rotors should be fineHow long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
It really depends on your driving habits. If you drive highway mostly then you may not need brakes, if you do a lot of in town driving then you MIGHT. You should have a mechanic that you trust check the brakes. If you do need them then get the rotors machined, it wont cost that much more and it will prolong the life of the new brakes.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
I have 45,000 miles on one car, 65,000 miles on another and one truck has 80,000 miles on the brake pads. They all stop good and I check the pads from time to time to make sure they look all right. If the pads look good and you are not having problems, I wouldn't change them. You have about 40,000 miles (60,000 km) and that means you don't ride your brakes so you should be able to go around 100,000 miles (161,000 km) before anything need to be done.
And brakes are one thing I don't take any chances with on a car. If there is any danger I get them fixed.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
if you have gone 60,000 miles without new pads until now you are doing good. And yes you want to have the rotors turned. i dont know what dealers charge but anywhere else probably under 100.00 or you could do it yourself for under $50.00.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
I have a 2000 Tundra, I have put over 140,000 miles on it many of them pulling (and stopping) heavy loads. The brake pads are still good. So 60,000 km would be a short life in my experience. And yes you should hear the squeaking if they are nearing the end of their life.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
Brake lining life depends on your driving habits and also what material they are made of. If these are the original linings, you definitely got your money's worth out of them. I would go ahead and have the brakes replaced and the rotors/drums refaced even if you don't feel any brake pedal fluctuation. The cost for rotor/drum refacing varies,but it could be upwards of $20 USD. Rotors have a minimum thickness and drums have a maximum diameter before replacing. If that's so, you can expect to pay even more. Besides, you can't put a price on safety. Remember: All go and no whoa ruins your day.How long should brake pads last on a 2004 Toyota Corolla CE?
60000 Kilometers = 37284 Miles (for those who dont know)
I would suggest having an ASE certified mechaninc replace your pads, then, ask him for his opinion of weather or not the rotors need mechined. My personal thoughts will be that they dont need to be. But hey everyone thinks different, this is just my opinion.
Replacing your pads before you hear them squeak or grind is safer then waiting till they are telling you they need it.
And a side note to the guy who %26quot;claims%26quot; he has put 140,000 Miles on his truck pulling loads and not replaced his pads, your about as irresponsible as they come, you are endangering other lives by running that risk. if you want to pull loads with a truck (and judgin from your comment I guess you dont) you have the responsibility of ensuring your brakes are good, not just %26quot;hoping%26quot; they dont give out this time you try to stop.
Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
I have had my 92 Saturn SL2 since 2003. I bought it from a small dealership in California (I live in Michigan now). It said 152,000 miles on it but the dealer said a newer engine was put in it to pass the smog test (I never found out how many miles were on the newer engine, plus, the mileage stopped working at 172,000 miles).
Today the mechanic said I need brake pads and rotors ($170 parts/labor) and struts ($210-$280 parts/labor). SHOULD I GET THIS DONE?
I've already gotten so much fixed such as radiator, timing chain, tie rod, alternator, battery, serpentine belt, etc, over the years.
I also have an oil leak under the car - they showed it to me during the oil change (I'm not worried about this repair yet). The car idles high sometimes. Sometimes I have to %26quot;rev%26quot; the gas for it to start, and sometimes in neutral it makes the %26quot;put put%26quot; sound like it might cut off.
If I don't get repairs, then I would just drive the car AS-IS for a few more months.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
Well brakes are a matter of safety and struts are a matter of comfort and handling. I've always tried to get safety fixes done right away.
You need to have a mechanic that you trust go through the car and prioritize a list of repairs that the car needs and what the consequences of deferring each repair is.
New cars means a car loan so it's actually a fair bit of maintenance before a new car makes sense. If you set aside the money that you would spend on a car loan each month, you'll soon find enough money there to repair your car and have a tidy sum for emergencies. It's a good idea to develop the discipline to set money aside, some banks allow for subaccounts so that you can create virtual accounts within your account and effectively tag your money for various purposes.
If you tally up all the repairs that you've done and divide it by the number of months that you've had the car and that average is higher than a new car payment then you're probably better off with a new car. You could get really fancy and plot the monthly expenditures on a graph and fit a straight line or an exponential line to it in order to estimate future repair costs.
If you do want a new car, those Chrysler dealerships are desperate to unload stock in TX cause a state law prohibits them from selling new vehicles once they loose their franchise but they've already paid for their new stock. They basically have to sell everything they have in the next week or they won't be able to sell at all.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
Get a new car.. stop letting that be your money's quicksand. You can find a much better car for a decent amount of money. All used cars have problems... but stop throwing your money away! I just had to let go of my crappy old Taurus that was my money's quicksand. Sucks... and now i've gotten myself in a whole nother can of worms... but oh well. I at least know my car is going to safely get my from point A to point B!Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
You are at that fine point where new car payments and insurance may be worth the peace of mind. Ford, GM, and Hyundai have payment rescue plans in case you lose your job, so I'd shop there. If you don't like to shop for a car, and are a AAA member, they have a really good auto buying program you should check out.java white hair
Today the mechanic said I need brake pads and rotors ($170 parts/labor) and struts ($210-$280 parts/labor). SHOULD I GET THIS DONE?
I've already gotten so much fixed such as radiator, timing chain, tie rod, alternator, battery, serpentine belt, etc, over the years.
I also have an oil leak under the car - they showed it to me during the oil change (I'm not worried about this repair yet). The car idles high sometimes. Sometimes I have to %26quot;rev%26quot; the gas for it to start, and sometimes in neutral it makes the %26quot;put put%26quot; sound like it might cut off.
If I don't get repairs, then I would just drive the car AS-IS for a few more months.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
Well brakes are a matter of safety and struts are a matter of comfort and handling. I've always tried to get safety fixes done right away.
You need to have a mechanic that you trust go through the car and prioritize a list of repairs that the car needs and what the consequences of deferring each repair is.
New cars means a car loan so it's actually a fair bit of maintenance before a new car makes sense. If you set aside the money that you would spend on a car loan each month, you'll soon find enough money there to repair your car and have a tidy sum for emergencies. It's a good idea to develop the discipline to set money aside, some banks allow for subaccounts so that you can create virtual accounts within your account and effectively tag your money for various purposes.
If you tally up all the repairs that you've done and divide it by the number of months that you've had the car and that average is higher than a new car payment then you're probably better off with a new car. You could get really fancy and plot the monthly expenditures on a graph and fit a straight line or an exponential line to it in order to estimate future repair costs.
If you do want a new car, those Chrysler dealerships are desperate to unload stock in TX cause a state law prohibits them from selling new vehicles once they loose their franchise but they've already paid for their new stock. They basically have to sell everything they have in the next week or they won't be able to sell at all.Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
Get a new car.. stop letting that be your money's quicksand. You can find a much better car for a decent amount of money. All used cars have problems... but stop throwing your money away! I just had to let go of my crappy old Taurus that was my money's quicksand. Sucks... and now i've gotten myself in a whole nother can of worms... but oh well. I at least know my car is going to safely get my from point A to point B!Should I get my 92 Saturn SL2 fixed? Brakes, Rotors, Struts...?
You are at that fine point where new car payments and insurance may be worth the peace of mind. Ford, GM, and Hyundai have payment rescue plans in case you lose your job, so I'd shop there. If you don't like to shop for a car, and are a AAA member, they have a really good auto buying program you should check out.
Brakes Acura 1.7El?
Should i change my own brakes pads and rotors on my Acura 1.7EL. I just started learning how to tinker with my car.Brakes Acura 1.7El?
Ken:
Front disc pads are fairly straight forward. As you are just starting out, make certain that you have a repair manual that walks through each required step. Better yet is having someone who knows brakes to show you how.
I use a 'C' clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper bore. This is inexpensive and effective. A basic set of metric wrenches and sockets will get the job done. It is good to have a torque wrench to secure the mounting bolts correctly (most also call for use of thread lock compound).
Rear drum brakes are more involved but can still be done at home. Just make certain that you do one side at a time! Do not take both sides off, because you will need to refer back to the other side to see how it goes back together (I know you are asking about disc brakes, but many cars have rear drums).
Rear drum brakes have a 'leading' and 'trailing' shoe. On many applications these can be installed incorrectly. Need to match the new to old shoes.
Many front disc brakes have an inboard and outboard pad - some are interchangeable. Need to make certain that these are installed correctly (usually it is very obvious on the front).
There is a lot of technique to doing brake jobs: how the rotors are machined, using anti-seize (or grease) on metal-to-metal contact points, applying a membrane on rear of brake pads, installing anti-rattle brake hardware, bleeding brakes (something that is not done often enough on most cars).
It is not too hard to do a good brake job with the right tools, procedure and attention to detail.
Marc
Ken:
Front disc pads are fairly straight forward. As you are just starting out, make certain that you have a repair manual that walks through each required step. Better yet is having someone who knows brakes to show you how.
I use a 'C' clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper bore. This is inexpensive and effective. A basic set of metric wrenches and sockets will get the job done. It is good to have a torque wrench to secure the mounting bolts correctly (most also call for use of thread lock compound).
Rear drum brakes are more involved but can still be done at home. Just make certain that you do one side at a time! Do not take both sides off, because you will need to refer back to the other side to see how it goes back together (I know you are asking about disc brakes, but many cars have rear drums).
Rear drum brakes have a 'leading' and 'trailing' shoe. On many applications these can be installed incorrectly. Need to match the new to old shoes.
Many front disc brakes have an inboard and outboard pad - some are interchangeable. Need to make certain that these are installed correctly (usually it is very obvious on the front).
There is a lot of technique to doing brake jobs: how the rotors are machined, using anti-seize (or grease) on metal-to-metal contact points, applying a membrane on rear of brake pads, installing anti-rattle brake hardware, bleeding brakes (something that is not done often enough on most cars).
It is not too hard to do a good brake job with the right tools, procedure and attention to detail.
Marc
Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?
Ok so i just got a 1998 Ford Escort from my grandma who passed away couple weeks back. So just to be safe i got it checked at Midas. They told me i had 2 get all my brakes pads, my front rotor and my serpentine belt changed. Im not really good with cars so please explain this to me. when they said get ur front rotor changed, what does that mean...both front tires...how many rotors does a car have..... And also does anyone know where i can get all these parts cheap. PLUS I DONT WAN TO SELL THIS CAR SO DONT SUGGEST THAT TO ME. thanksNeed Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?
You'll get a lot of opinions on cars, and mine from years of experience is not to go to the national chain store franchises like Midas, Goodyear, Firestone, and some others in large metropolitan areas. It's much better in my opinion to get to know some local independent shops you can find below that are recommended by your neighbors. The %26quot;gaurantees%26quot; you get at those chain stores and quickie lubes don't mean much. They end up charging you a lot anyways and less qualified mechanics are generally working on your car. The Ford dealer is a good place to get a diagnosis and quote for engine and transmission problems and let the independent shops do your brake, belts and hoses, exhaust, tires, and suspension work. When a car gets titled in your name at the motor vehicle department, it gets a safety check. If that safety check says your car is ok, then Midas is just trying to make money in my opinion rather than only fix what's needed to be fixed. Preventive maintenance like filter and fluid changes are specified in your owner's manual and are the most important thing for you to spend your money on.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?
The rotors are the brake rotors, and your car probably has four, one for each wheel/brake.
As the disc brake pads wear they also slowly wear away the rotors and will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is what drives your alternator, AC, power steering and stuff like that. That shouldn't cost you more than $10-$15 or so at an autoparts store. Don't know where you live, so it's hard to say where to get the parts cheapest, but most garages don't like you bringing in your own parts.
You'll get a lot of opinions on cars, and mine from years of experience is not to go to the national chain store franchises like Midas, Goodyear, Firestone, and some others in large metropolitan areas. It's much better in my opinion to get to know some local independent shops you can find below that are recommended by your neighbors. The %26quot;gaurantees%26quot; you get at those chain stores and quickie lubes don't mean much. They end up charging you a lot anyways and less qualified mechanics are generally working on your car. The Ford dealer is a good place to get a diagnosis and quote for engine and transmission problems and let the independent shops do your brake, belts and hoses, exhaust, tires, and suspension work. When a car gets titled in your name at the motor vehicle department, it gets a safety check. If that safety check says your car is ok, then Midas is just trying to make money in my opinion rather than only fix what's needed to be fixed. Preventive maintenance like filter and fluid changes are specified in your owner's manual and are the most important thing for you to spend your money on.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/Need Some car help (Brakes,rotor and serpentine belt) Please help?
The rotors are the brake rotors, and your car probably has four, one for each wheel/brake.
As the disc brake pads wear they also slowly wear away the rotors and will need to be replaced.
Serpentine belt is what drives your alternator, AC, power steering and stuff like that. That shouldn't cost you more than $10-$15 or so at an autoparts store. Don't know where you live, so it's hard to say where to get the parts cheapest, but most garages don't like you bringing in your own parts.
How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
My front rotors are fine, but the pads are worn down to the point that
they squeak. I am wondering how you compress the pistons that put pressure on the pads to A. Get them off, and B the new pads are thicker, so you have to make room to get them back on somehow.
(I'm too cheap to have a brake job, and know I can do this myself for a lot less)How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
take the cap off the resivour take off the calipers leave the pad on the side with the piston get a large c clamp and screw it in they (the caliper pistons) dont move as easily as some would let you believe but a c-clamp is relativly inexpensive and it will workHow do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Make out you have broken down and call out the AA and they will do it for you.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
An old tried an true method is to remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir (where you add the brake fluid) and just press in on the calipers (the things that push on the brake pads) they should move in relatively easily. Be sure to firmly attach the reservoir cap when done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
My favorite tool for this job is a crowbar. Use the flat end and insert Between the caliper and the piston. Make sure you are pushing on the center of the piston and not on the rubber boot around the outer edge of the piston. Remove the cap from the master cylinder and place a clean dry rag over the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling in while it is open. gently apply pressure to the piston until it is fully seated. Replace the pads. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Press the brake pedal firmly several times to fully seat the piston onto the pads. Replace the tires and wheels and you are done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Just be sure to check your rotors for scoring (the squeel means you might be down to metal), in which case you need to have the rotors turned and a brake shop is your best bet. If you shop around someone will give you a deal. If you must do it yourself, make sure you have transpo in case the parts store gives you the wrong pads. Use good quality pads so they last a while. Use the lubricant they give you in the kit. Use a pry bar to compress the pistons and open the calipers and most important, have a couple of cold beers handy and a bud to chat with while you're wasting double the time it will take the shop to do the job. P.S. If you're married, don't let your wife watch. It will drive both of you crazy.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Just push the pistons in on Both front or both rear which ever side your doing, push them all the way in until they bottom, buy a caliper piston tool, I usually push them in with the old pad to avoid damaging anything.
If it's like a honda I wouldn't do it if I were you, but if its an american car it should be real easy, I would say just go down to the parts store buy New rotors and middle of the road pads, I have found if you put really cheap pads on car they don't last long. If the new rotors cost more than 35 $ I would concider getting them turned if they are not to thin. Only thing to remember is lube end of pads on slides don't lube face of pad make sure both slides that attach to caliper move freely , lube those to.
they squeak. I am wondering how you compress the pistons that put pressure on the pads to A. Get them off, and B the new pads are thicker, so you have to make room to get them back on somehow.
(I'm too cheap to have a brake job, and know I can do this myself for a lot less)How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
take the cap off the resivour take off the calipers leave the pad on the side with the piston get a large c clamp and screw it in they (the caliper pistons) dont move as easily as some would let you believe but a c-clamp is relativly inexpensive and it will workHow do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Make out you have broken down and call out the AA and they will do it for you.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
An old tried an true method is to remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir (where you add the brake fluid) and just press in on the calipers (the things that push on the brake pads) they should move in relatively easily. Be sure to firmly attach the reservoir cap when done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
My favorite tool for this job is a crowbar. Use the flat end and insert Between the caliper and the piston. Make sure you are pushing on the center of the piston and not on the rubber boot around the outer edge of the piston. Remove the cap from the master cylinder and place a clean dry rag over the opening to keep dirt and debris from falling in while it is open. gently apply pressure to the piston until it is fully seated. Replace the pads. Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Press the brake pedal firmly several times to fully seat the piston onto the pads. Replace the tires and wheels and you are done.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Just be sure to check your rotors for scoring (the squeel means you might be down to metal), in which case you need to have the rotors turned and a brake shop is your best bet. If you shop around someone will give you a deal. If you must do it yourself, make sure you have transpo in case the parts store gives you the wrong pads. Use good quality pads so they last a while. Use the lubricant they give you in the kit. Use a pry bar to compress the pistons and open the calipers and most important, have a couple of cold beers handy and a bud to chat with while you're wasting double the time it will take the shop to do the job. P.S. If you're married, don't let your wife watch. It will drive both of you crazy.How do you change the front disk pads on a car.?
Just push the pistons in on Both front or both rear which ever side your doing, push them all the way in until they bottom, buy a caliper piston tool, I usually push them in with the old pad to avoid damaging anything.
If it's like a honda I wouldn't do it if I were you, but if its an american car it should be real easy, I would say just go down to the parts store buy New rotors and middle of the road pads, I have found if you put really cheap pads on car they don't last long. If the new rotors cost more than 35 $ I would concider getting them turned if they are not to thin. Only thing to remember is lube end of pads on slides don't lube face of pad make sure both slides that attach to caliper move freely , lube those to.
Why am I getting less gas mileage?
Recently my 2001 Rav 4 has been getting less and less gas mileage. I have had it for almost 7 years and usually get about 320-330 miles out of a tank. Here recently in the past few months I've gone down to about 240-250 miles per tank. I need a new timing belt soon since I'm at 108K and am due for an oil change in a few weeks. But those things wouldnt decrease my mileage that much would they??? Also, I've recently heard a grinding noise when I switch gears or accelerate rapidly which I did not hear before. It's coming from the passenger side of the engine. I dont know a whole lot about vehicles other than how to change oil, tires, brake pads, and rotors. :-/Why am I getting less gas mileage?
How long has it been since it was tuned up? Could be time to do that.
Also try this. Replace your fuel filter and then get a fuel pressure test. One of the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator is a Noticeable decrease in fuel mileage. Here are some other symptoms%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Engine runs rough
Engine stumbles or sputters
Engine runs very rich - black smoke from the exhaust
Engine will not start
Engine starts but stalls shortly after startup
Noisy fuel pumpWhy am I getting less gas mileage?
It could be that your timing belt is going bad and yes bad oil. but what about your air cleaner or even your o2 senors. Bad timing would definitely hurt you gas mileage alone. even bad spark plugs and wires could hurt your gas mileage. try giving it a tune up; change the plug and wires, oil, and air cleaner it the mileage will most likely go back up.Why am I getting less gas mileage?
That's almost a 30% drop in tank mileage. I presume you are not smelling gasoline or have a 'check engine light' or you would have mentioned it in your post. I don't think a timing belt would cause that big of a drop otherwise your engine would be running quite rough.. A web site I visited stated that your fuel tank capacity is 14.7 gallons. They don't say if that is usable capacity or absolute capacity. But, based on the 14.7 gallon capacity, 330 mile range is about 22.5 mpg and 250 mile range is about 17 mpg. I think taking it to a diagnostic center might tell you where you are losing the 5.5 mpg.
How long has it been since it was tuned up? Could be time to do that.
Also try this. Replace your fuel filter and then get a fuel pressure test. One of the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator is a Noticeable decrease in fuel mileage. Here are some other symptoms%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Engine runs rough
Engine stumbles or sputters
Engine runs very rich - black smoke from the exhaust
Engine will not start
Engine starts but stalls shortly after startup
Noisy fuel pumpWhy am I getting less gas mileage?
It could be that your timing belt is going bad and yes bad oil. but what about your air cleaner or even your o2 senors. Bad timing would definitely hurt you gas mileage alone. even bad spark plugs and wires could hurt your gas mileage. try giving it a tune up; change the plug and wires, oil, and air cleaner it the mileage will most likely go back up.Why am I getting less gas mileage?
That's almost a 30% drop in tank mileage. I presume you are not smelling gasoline or have a 'check engine light' or you would have mentioned it in your post. I don't think a timing belt would cause that big of a drop otherwise your engine would be running quite rough.. A web site I visited stated that your fuel tank capacity is 14.7 gallons. They don't say if that is usable capacity or absolute capacity. But, based on the 14.7 gallon capacity, 330 mile range is about 22.5 mpg and 250 mile range is about 17 mpg. I think taking it to a diagnostic center might tell you where you are losing the 5.5 mpg.
What causes a grabbing noise like after changing the front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan?
It was making like a grabbing noise ( don't know how to explain it) every time you stepped on the brakes. Replaced the front brake shoes (which was worn down and needed to be replaced) Took it for a test drive and now that noise is alot louder then what it was before. It is coming from the passenger front side. I noticed on that right side rotor passengers side it had some grooves in the rotor. Which means that the brakes been down to far. But anyway the new shoes should wear in where it shouldn't make any noise but still does. Got over 50 miles on the new brake shoes. Would the wheel bearing be going out on that side? That is my only thought now.What causes a grabbing noise like after changing the front brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan?
There has been a rash of bad pads on the market recently. Some pads emit a gas when heated up just a little. Essentially Fart ing out between the pads and rotors making a horrible groan at very low speeds.hair brush web hosting sites
There has been a rash of bad pads on the market recently. Some pads emit a gas when heated up just a little. Essentially Fart ing out between the pads and rotors making a horrible groan at very low speeds.
Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
what
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
hi recently i was trying to change my front brake pads and I striped one of the caliper screws .dont ask how but one of the pads fell out and i was driving the car using e brake to stop when i finally did get the caliper off and depressed the pin brake fluid started shooting out from the piiston which would tell me its shot and needs to be replaced.yesterday i changed out all the rotors and pads all around and bleed the system and brakes were working fine but i smelled a burning smell like rubber coming from front wheel(the one that i had the issue with the caliper)..do i have to replkace the caliper and is this why it smells like burning? helpCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
you say your smelling something coming from the brake pads ? it,s probably that the pads have,nt had time to set to the rotors. mine does that too until the pads gets harden up and set to the rotors. keep driving it and the smell should go away.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If your brake pedal is good and you are not loosing brake fluid, you may be OK. The smell may just be left over brake fluid burning off from earlier. however, if you notice the pedal slowly going to the floor or fluid level in the master going down, then you will need to replace the caliper since the piston seal may be damaged.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
Here we have another example of a person that thinks he's a mechanic.
Working on your vehicle and driving with brakes that fail because you don't know what you're doing will kill someone if not yourself!!!
Going to play Dentist next?Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
If I read you correctly - you have changed out the rotors as well as the pads after the fluid leak. If that is correct then your problem is probably the fact that the seal in the caliper that was leaking is still leaking. What you're smelling would be the burning brake fluid.
You said you bled the system after replacing the rotors and pads? Normally when doing this you should have noticed the fluid leaking from that caliper piston. Considering that you may not have noticed the leak, my guess is that its still there and changing out the calipers should take care of the problem. Be sure to check the pads for signs of fluid contamination. If they've been soaking up leaking fluid (very probable) change them too.
Don't try to get those bolts too tight, there's a torque limit set by the manufacturer.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
well most likey its the brake pads your smelling redo your work an dmost likely replace caliber not much harder than what s you have done so far
you can find all types of car reapir by typing into search box
how to check brake pad
how to replace brake pads
how to bleed brakes
how to replace brake caliber video
easy and if one types in video at end of any of these finds a video pretty sure you need a new caliber and might need new pads again an dyou don thave to tighten them down that much just run them up and give it a bump al it needs stop driving it an d recheckCan anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
yes you need to replace the caliper. what is happening is that the caliper is sticking, causing the pad to come into contact with the rotor all the time , instead of releasing when you let off the break. the only other think that could be wrong is that you could have a broken rubber brake line thats causing the caliper to freeze up, but if you said that your caliper was leaking when you depressed the caliper, then it should be your caliper.Can anyone help me with my brakes on 2001 accord v6 ex?
your caliper is not seated right. washers not in rite place
How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
By now, the rotors may possibly be bad too because I can hear metal on metal. I need to know how to change both DIY. A lot of details please?How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
take off the tire
feel the rotor with your finger, is it smooth, or does it have grooves like a record? grooves means it will need to be cut
remove the pads byloosening the caliper. some cars use allen wrench
then lift the caliper off the rotor, and put the new ones in their place
you''ll have to depress the plunger since the new ones are thicker( not worn) and wont fit
just squeeze them inHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
unless your a gear head dont do it to much to lose like your life....go to a mechanic it will cost a bit but well worth it...and if your a gear head you should know how to do itHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
If you have to ask, have somebody else who knows what they're doing. If you know somebody, maybe you can help him/her do it so the next time you know. It's not hard once you do it but it's not something you would want to experiment with, after all you need it to avoid killing yourself and/or others.How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
if you don't already know i highly suggest having someone else do it and you just help them out and observe.. otherwise you may be stuck in the middle and not know anything from there :pHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
Hey Sara, Go for it.
Just take a look at this video first http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pUNvMr6i
take off the tire
feel the rotor with your finger, is it smooth, or does it have grooves like a record? grooves means it will need to be cut
remove the pads byloosening the caliper. some cars use allen wrench
then lift the caliper off the rotor, and put the new ones in their place
you''ll have to depress the plunger since the new ones are thicker( not worn) and wont fit
just squeeze them inHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
unless your a gear head dont do it to much to lose like your life....go to a mechanic it will cost a bit but well worth it...and if your a gear head you should know how to do itHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
If you have to ask, have somebody else who knows what they're doing. If you know somebody, maybe you can help him/her do it so the next time you know. It's not hard once you do it but it's not something you would want to experiment with, after all you need it to avoid killing yourself and/or others.How do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
if you don't already know i highly suggest having someone else do it and you just help them out and observe.. otherwise you may be stuck in the middle and not know anything from there :pHow do I replace my front brake pads on my 1997 Honda Accord?
Hey Sara, Go for it.
Just take a look at this video first http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pUNvMr6i
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